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Please review my wiring diagram

E

eatenbyagrue

Active Member
Hi All,

With my Quickbuild arriving next week, I'm starting to plan out my wiring so I can start ordering wire and roll right into it when the time comes. I'd love to have some feedback from the VAF crew on my wiring diagram, posted here:

http://cloudsdk.com/RV7wiring.pdf

I plan on using the Vertical Power VP-50, so everything is based around that system. Anything I missed or could be done better? One thing I am unclear on is where I want to include fuses and/or fusible links when using the VP-50 system....

Thanks all,
Josh

ps. If anyone is interested, I've posted the Visio source file as well http://cloudsdk.com/RV7wiring.vsd
 
use the vp50 planning tools

i suggest that you start with the system wiring diagram (that includes wire sizes and fuse sizes) from vertical power along with their detailed vp50 planning guide (an excel spreadsheet) that will greatly assist you in planning for power and switch management.

i am just about finished with all of my wiring and have found the vp50 to be a very nice unit with excellent value.
 
Josh,

Overall looks pretty good. A few things to look at more closely:
- the starter switch circuit should have a fuse in-line.
- the key switch for the slick and light speed goes to ground, not main power.
- you will need a power line from the VP-50 to the LS ign.
- the flap circuit is a bit more involved than what you have there. See the FPS directions.
- you may also want to diagram the trim and flap switches.
- if you want variable speed trim, you may want to diagram the switch for that.

There is more detail about these points in the VP-50 installation manual.

We'll be glad to review your Load Planning Worksheet with you.

Marc
 
Just what I was looking for...

Marc,

Thanks much for the comments. Seeing your helpful participation in these forums is part of why I decided to go with Vertical Power.

I don't have my FPS or mags yet, so definitely was guessing a little there... I'll update next week when I get the instructions (and Quickbuild) in, and, if anyone is interested, repost the file for download.

I'll definitely take you up on your offer to review my load planning worksheet. One question, I'm going to put of planning my avionics stack for the time being (probably going Dynon & Garmin but not sure yet) - how much capacity should i reserve in my plan for avionics, as a rule of thumb? I'm thinking single bus cross country VFR stack.

Thanks
Josh
 
Josh,

I sorta wish we'd put a flap controller in the VP-50, because the external ones are much more work to install and nearly everyone these days has electric flaps. I know a guy who just built an RV-3 and (good for him) put electric flaps in that too.

Hard to say exactly what to plan for, but you can provision for generic components. For example, save a 5 amp power pin (meaning you can set the circuit breaker between 1A and 5A) for the transponder. Save one for the audio panel. Save one for the EFIS screen and one more for the AHRS. Etc. An SL-30 needs two 5A circuits, but an SL-40 only one. The G430 needs a 10A and a 5A. It's very easy to add wires to unused power pins in the future so if you're off by one or two it should be fine.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I sorta wish we'd put a flap controller in the VP-50, because the external ones are much more work to install and nearly everyone these days has electric flaps. I know a guy who just built an RV-3 and (good for him) put electric flaps in that too.
Click to expand...

Marc, I wish you had also. That was one of the reasons I ended up not using your system. I wanted to go with the VP50, and had several designs using it. In the end, I choose to build my own. The flap controller was an issue.
 
Weight?

What is the weight of the VP50 Switch Panel, Control Unit and the interconnecting cable?

I cannot find this information on the VP website.

Thanks in advance.
 
Alternator circuit

I couldn't find the alternator on your diagram. Often people will put a CB in the alternator output to the buss. If you do that, please put the voltage regulator on the alternator-side of the CB. The reason for this is that with the regulator attached to the buss, if the alternator CB goes open, the regulator will sense low-voltage and supply maximum field current to the alternator, and its output will rise to stratospheric heights! Then, if you close through the Alt CB, you will put one hellacious voltage spike on your buss! By connecting the regulator to the alternator-side of its CB, the regulator will maintain the correct output voltage and provide somewhat of a load on the alternator while its CB is open.
 
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