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Page 34-14 Step 5 "Mylar Packaging Tape"

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BigJohn

Well Known Member
The instructions call for applying "mylar packaging tape" over the duct tape where the fiberglass layup is going to go. Does anybody know what this tape is and where to find it? All I can find is poly tape.
 
Basically, any smooth tape will do. What they are talking about is packaging tape, that real thin stuff they use on boxes. Lowes, Menard's, any hardware store. Coat it real good (good coverage, not lots of wax) with wax as a release agent. I used Lemon Pledge.

Fiberglassing is kinda fun, you just have to get into it.

Larry's TOD (tip of the day :rolleyes:) mask off the areas below the layup area. You don't want raw resin dipping on it. It is REAL tough to get off metal after it cures with the rivet heads sticking up. Ask me how I know this!
 
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Thanks Larry. While we're on the topic of fiberglass, I notice that the fiberglass is to cover down over the gas strut opening. How does one accomplish that? Does the wet glass cloth just hang down straight enough, or do you have to put something behind it for the cloth to lay against?
 
That is a good question. JohnB should jump in shortly. He built a little "dam" out of the extra foam that we used for the canopy arms. I just let it hang down. If I remember right, I wished I would have followed John's idea. Just something back there would help reduce the sag. Even that packing tape would work.
 
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Fillers

I used foam and filled all the open areas before glassing them over. Made it easier to do I feel. Cut up any old foam pieces, then sand them to the shape you want.

John Bender
 
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John, how did you prevent the wet fiberglass from sticking to the foam filler? I'm guessing you taped over it and waxed the tape? Or did you just dig out the foam from underneath after the fiberglass cured?
 
Big John

Yes, just taped over everything. Then put wax over it. The cheaper the foam, the easier it was to chip out after you get it off. Actually makes it smoother inside afterward also, which makes a better finish inside for painting. Looks nicer inside when the canopy is tipped up.

Also, I took the gas cyl.s off during the fiberglass layup.

John Bender
 
Bigjohn,
You can also get packing tape at Staples, Walmart, Home Depot and Lowes.
A good carnuba car wax will work good. As a matter of fact, Meguiers sells a special carnuba release wax which is nothing more than car wax in a different can. The important thing is the tape has a smooth surface and doesn't react to the resin.
John Bender,
Does it matter what kind of foam that is used for a filler? Will the foam blocks used for shipping work? Does the resin melt the foam? I want to avoid a bigger mess. I remember it has somthing to do with open or closed cell foams. I noticed the foam supplied with the kit is a special foam, unlike the foams used for packing, it's a harder material.

Art Pennanen
 
Art

You are covering anything you put in there, so it is not an issue. I just wedged some hand cut pieces in place then sanded them to a nice smooth contoured finish. If you tape well, it doesn't make any difference what foam you use.

John Bender
 
I took a LOT of care with that bubble. READ my blog as it details the steps I went thru and all I considered.

I ordered the amount of fiberglass and peel-ply per Section 5.0 in the plans. There was plenty. I used the West System, ensure you use the SLOW hardener and buy the measurement pumps

My install starts here,

http://martysrv12.blogspot.com/2009/04/canopy-research-suggestions.html
http://martysrv12.blogspot.com/2009/04/canopyfiberglass-pictures.html

With me observing John Bender. My installation goes thru May starting here.

http://martysrv12.blogspot.com/2009/05/started-canopy.html

A release agent is mandatory!!! You put the fiberglass right on top of the waxed celophane tape. I used carnuba wax.
 
Thanks John and Marty

Thanks for the info guys. I've got all my materials except for the wax. I'm getting some car wax, then I can buff up the cars when it warms up. Marty, in #6 of your canopy research you mention using thin plastic washers between the Canopy Frame and the Canopy. I think thats a great idea. What was Van's response to your inquiry? I mentioned to Mich Locke, when he came up to Massachusetts last fall, that a strip of electrical tape or something similar might prevent scratching of the Canopy by contact with the frame. He didn't seem to object, but then he's not the design engineer either.

I had my sixteen year old grandson in the sweat box this weekend. He helped with drilling through the Side Skirts, Canopy and Attach Angles. That went well and he was thrilled to work on the plane as well as being the first to sit in the cockpit.

I got a couple of scratches on the top rear of the Canopy. I started drilling those holes with a pneumatic drill w/ #30 plexi drill bit. The weight of the hose and the awkward position I was in, caused me to lose control of the drill bit while positioning it, resulting in two scratches. I immediately changed over to my battery powered drill and had no further problems. I've since purchased Van's scratch repair kit and will report on it's sucess later.
 
With regard to the thin washers. I ended up not using them. Just followed the plans here. I did put thin plastic washers under all screw heads if they were laying directly on the plastic bubble. Did the same for all of the fiberglass parts that were attached with screws.
 
Vinegar works well for cleaning up epoxy drips.

But don't get it on the fiberglass that you want to keep!

David Paule
 
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