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Page 29-07 Step 1 - Rivets or screws for F-1202A?

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BigJohn

Well Known Member
I want to use screws wherever possible to mount the instrument panel sections. Figure 1 shows optional use of AN515-6R8 or AN507C632R8 screws instead of the CCR-264SS-3-2 rivets. Problem is, it doesn't talk about what the screws would fasten into. Would the builder be expected to install nutplates on the F-1202J Inst. Stack Angles in order to have something to screw into? Or would one be expected to use self locking nuts for that purpose.

I can't find anything in the instructions or on VAF that addresses this. Anybody else run into this?
 
BigJohn said:
I want to use screws wherever possible to mount the instrument panel sections. Figure 1 shows optional use of AN515-6R8 or AN507C632R8 screws instead of the CCR-264SS-3-2 rivets. Problem is, it doesn't talk about what the screws would fasten into. Would the builder be expected to install nutplates on the F-1202J Inst. Stack Angles in order to have something to screw into? Or would one be expected to use self locking nuts for that purpose.

I can't find anything in the instructions or on VAF that addresses this. Anybody else run into this?
Click to expand...

Screws with self locking nuts would be just fine.
 
Washers and locknuts are specified

John:

The revision that allows for the use of screws instead of rivets also calls out the washers and locknuts that are supposed to be used along with the screws. Take a look again at the callout on the Figure. The washers are NAS1149FN632P and the locknuts are AN365-632A. If you go with screws for the center section, you have to drill the holes large enough to accept the 6-32 screws. I think I used a #27 drill for this.

Jeff
 
Thanks for the info

Aha! That's what all those numbers mean! As you can tell, I'm not that familiar (yet) with all these hardware numbering schemes. I'll have to check and see if I have that hardware. I don't know if it came with the kit. May have to order.

Finish kit arriving today or tomorrow.................

Anyway, thanks for the answers guys.
 
More on screws

John, did you go with screws for F1202A? If so, did you have to order stuff?

On a more general note, I see in Step 2 that the default for fastening the left and right panels is the use of round headed screws (AN515-6R8). An option is to use AN507C632R8. I believe these are countersunk steel screws. I couldn't find this part number so I guess these would need to be ordered. Is this correct?

What are the pros/cons of the two options?

I'm going to have to install standby instruments to satisy UK certification requirements. I'm thinking of putting ASI, altimeter, and compass above the map box. If I do this, will steel screws (or anything else ferrous in that area) cause me problems with calibrating the compass? I'm going with a Precision unit.
 
Screws for the center panel

Keith:

Saw your question for John and thought I would answer. The screws and nuts needed for the optional installation method for the center panel are not included in the kit (at least not enough of them and I don't believe any of them if you go the countersunk route). I elected to use AN-515s to match the outer panels (although the other option is countersunk on the outer panels as well). You will need to order hardware for your desired method- I ordered from Vans- with you in the UK, I presume you order some of your routine supplies locally though? These are all standard aircraft hardware. You will need more washers as well.

As to pros/cons- I assume you are asking standard head vs countersunk? I think this is all a matter of personal preference on what you like the looks of. Of course, it adds a bit of time to do all of the countersinking but that is irrelevant in the grand scheme of things. I cannot think of any other cons. Even if you go the countersunk method for all of the panel mounting screws, you will have standard heads for a number of the avionics. Hence, I elected to just have all the screws consistent. I definitely preferred the look of screws for the center panel (compared to the somewhat ugly pulled CCR rivets) and I like having the ability to remove the center panel for any future upgrades/maintenance without having to drill out rivets.

Some are also painting the screws to match the panel. This is something I will probably do as well- my preferred method of doing this is to drill and bunch of holes in a piece of wood, stick the screws in, and spray the whole lot at once!

Cheers and Happy Christmas!

Jeff
 
Kieth,

Jeff's information is right on. I went with the consistent look of the brass colored screws also. One thing I added was nutplates across the bottom of the center section, to facilitate future removal after the avionics trays are in. See: http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=BigJohn&project=639&category=0&log=94012&row=7

Got that idea from Tony T.

On the compass question - my first though on that would be to locate some real brass screws that match the brass-colored ones and use them around the compass area.

Best regards,

John
 
Map Box Rivets

I ended up going with the round-headed screws as have other posters.

Moving on to the Map Box, I see this is attached to the right hand panel with a mixture of flush squeezed rivets, and flush pulled rivets. Doesn't the mixture look funny? Further, I cannot reach all of the rivets called out with the squeezer. Vans must use a bigger C-frame than the one delivered in the tool kit, so I woul have to put in more pulled rivets than the plans show.

What have other builders done here? Is there a better solution?

Thanks...Keith
 
map box rivets

Keith:

I just encountered this same issue this past weekend. You are right- despite trying every conceivable variation with the squeezer, I could not get to 2 of the rivets that Vans indicate should be solid and one other was far from being easy to get to. I thought about grabbing my friend's rivet gun and driving solid rivets around the entire mapbox! I finally resorted to using the CCR pulled rivets where I had to. I did not like the look of the mixed rivets, particularly given that the ones on the sides are exposed when the door is closed. I had already decided I would rivet both the mapbox and D-180 trays in place prior to finishing the panels so that the rivets would be painted. Hence, I used body filler to fill the holes of the CCR rivets and then primed and painted the panels. Turned out great.
 
jte65 said:
Keith:

I just encountered this same issue this past weekend. You are right- despite trying every conceivable variation with the squeezer, I could not get to 2 of the rivets that Vans indicate should be solid and one other was far from being easy to get to. I thought about grabbing my friend's rivet gun and driving solid rivets around the entire mapbox!
Click to expand...

A little rati-tat-tat works great, and you really don't need a helper. Just go slow and tickle the trigger on the gun.

Tom
 
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