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Ordering empennage kit soon

J

jtrollin

Well Known Member
So this weekend I plan on building the EAA workbenches (modified to have retractable wheels so I can roll them around the garage). Once they are built I will be ordering my tool kit. Is there anything else I should order from Vans when I order the tail kit that I will need right away?

thanks,
 
You'll need some proseal for the trailing edge assemblies. However, it's got a limited shelf life, so you may want to wait until you get a little closer.

Have you made a decision about rudder trim? You may want to add that during the rudder construction section.

Also, what batteries are you going to use? Towards the end of the empennage, if you are going to put in dual battieries, you'll need some extra aluminum.

None of these you'll need right away.

I'm sure that I've left something else out, but can't remember at the moment. Go to Tim's site (myrv10.com.) Read his options and construction tips pages if you haven't already. When you do get your empennage, be sure to register it on Tim's site as well.

Why wait until the tables are built? It will take a month for the empennage to show up. Plenty of time to get the tables done and the garage in shape.

One tip that you may not have thought about. When the empennage arrives, you are going to have about 50 little brown paper bags with parts in them. Some folks keep the bags, but I was concerned about absorbing mositure over the length of the build and me accidently ripping one. I got some storage containers from Harbor Freight. They've worked great as parts bins. Make sure whatever you get, they have latching lids. I've dropped the one with the rivets in them more than once. Nothing worse than having to pick up revets, especially when the different sizes get all mixed up. :eek:
 
You bring up a good point about rudder trim. I have thought and read a lot about it. I have flown in a RV-10 that did not have rudder trim and he said it has not been a problem for him. I also talked to some RV-7 builders and they just had a trim tab on the rudder that was optimized for cruize. I am hesitant to put a moving trim tab back there, but might put in on of the kits that is connected to the rudder pedals.

Its these little things that will keep me up at night. I was also unaware that it took that long for the kit to ship, as the sight says they are ready right now, but I want to get a lot of practice in with the tools before the kit arives so I am less tempted to start on it untill my skills are built up.
 
If you are going with the rudder trim like Vic's/Tim's etc, then you might want to order an extra access plate kit that is originally for the stall warning access door. It is a nice little plate with a backing ring. They are VA-195D Access Hatch and VA-195C Access Hatch Doubler. I think they are sold as a pair.

When ordering your tool kit, if you are going with something like the Avery RV-10 kit, there are other things you need to add. I would add both a #30 and #40 reamer. Use these for all your final drilling of the skins.
I also ordered a Pheumatic squeezer and would do it again for sure. Get the 4" Yoke and the Longeron Yoke. I had to buy extra 3/32" clecos so you might want to jack the kit up by 100. You will also need a straight extra long back rivet set. You will need a nibler, don't remember if it came in the kit or not.

Harbor Freight will also be your friend. Their cheep die grinder has worked great.

As mentioned above, get on Tim's site and also make sure you add the Matronics -10 site to your reading http://forums.matronics.com/viewforum.php?f=10

Weclome aboard :)
 
I second the pneumatic squeezer, but practice with it first, it'll bite if not carefull (yes ask me how I know). Have a large, oil lubricated, conpresser with the largest air storage you can find. Pass on the Sears oil-less---- too noisey and the small air storage will have you crying. A good pair of hearing protection devices. Pneumatic clecoer is really nice to have. If you haven't experience or taken one already, one of the weekend aluminum riviting courses will get you up to speed. Build two of the benches you mentioned, push them together when both aren't needed. And unless you have unlimited room, build fast/cheap vertical wooden cradles for the finished parts as you go, it will keep you from running outta room/tripping over everything as you build.
 
Top_prop said:
I ordered my tail kit and it will be here friday... now I'm reading about installing a rudder trim 'mod'

I haven't even touched my kit yet and i'm thinking mod... great:(

orcidman, is this the mod you are referring to?

http://www.myrv10.com/tips/mods/RudderTrim/index.html
Click to expand...

Yes. There are several different trims out there but this is the one I did. In another current Matronics thread, there is talk about putting an inspection plate in the baggage floor area. I also did the same thing. This mod uses the same inspection plate so people are using the same plate several places. Makes a nice cover when you need it. I didn't now about the plate when I did my rudder trim and my corners/sides are not as nice as when the plate is use.
 
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On those 'standard' EAA workbenches, you might consider making one or both 8 foot instead of 5 foot. One of each end to end is just right for the wing. I found the 5 footers ran out of room occasionally, so I built a second pair of 8 footers.

Also, if you're worried about learning how to riviet, try the bottom skins on the elevators and horizontal stab first, nobody will see those. Then worry about the vertical stab and rudder. You don't have to build in sequence....
 
John,
Orchidman is on target. If you buy the kit from Avery, get more 3/32 clecos. See if you can replace one of the bucking bars with a tungsten one. The nibler was extra for me - a hand one is fine. Definitely get the reamers and the Pneumatic squeezer. Add some Boelube to the order for your bits.
Go to Home Depot or Lowes and get all the clamps that strike your fancy - you will need them.
John

orchidman said:
If you are going with the rudder trim like Vic's/Tim's etc, then you might want to order an extra access plate kit that is originally for the stall warning access door. It is a nice little plate with a backing ring. They are VA-195D Access Hatch and VA-195C Access Hatch Doubler. I think they are sold as a pair.

When ordering your tool kit, if you are going with something like the Avery RV-10 kit, there are other things you need to add. I would add both a #30 and #40 reamer. Use these for all your final drilling of the skins.
I also ordered a Pheumatic squeezer and would do it again for sure. Get the 4" Yoke and the Longeron Yoke. I had to buy extra 3/32" clecos so you might want to jack the kit up by 100. You will also need a straight extra long back rivet set. You will need a nibler, don't remember if it came in the kit or not.

Harbor Freight will also be your friend. Their cheep die grinder has worked great.

As mentioned above, get on Tim's site and also make sure you add the Matronics -10 site to your reading http://forums.matronics.com/viewforum.php?f=10

Weclome aboard :)
Click to expand...
 
time to resurect this thread

I got some questions...

I just finished all the deburring and dimpling of parts for my rudder... I had decided to get in the air before I attempted any mods to Van's plans. And I had decided to go with the spring on the rudder/vernier trim knob for rudder trim first as it seemd the simplest to do and easiest to reverse if I didn't like it... then last night I couldn't sleep thinking about electric trim... I was hoping to alodine and prime today... but I'm now considering putting he rudder back on the self, moving on to the HS & Elevator...

Why not use drill bits to final drill the skins? What is the advantage of the reamers?

How tough is it to retro fit the electric rudder trim mod? I've see the stuff on MyRV10.com, but it seems its an easy mod for someone like me with all the parts laying on my bench prepped.

Wouldn't it be a ton easier and cleaner (paint wise) to just put the Access panel in the rudder now? Then worry about the trim tab, servo, and other stuff later?


Arg.. I'm chasing my tail!
 
Manny said:
So What is the advatage......?
Click to expand...

The advantage is a reamer will produce more precise (dimensionally) and rounder holes. Only if you use it correctly though.

thousands of RVs have been built with drills instead of reamers. take your pick once you figure out the exact differences.

edit- the proper use of reamers is moderate rotational speed with high feed speeds. basically you push it through as fast as you can when it is spinning.
 
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New Builder

:eek:When I looked at tool kits I went with the ishem tools rv-10 kit and it comes with 99% of the tools and a few specific rv-10 needed tools like the bucking bar for the elevators ect. I would add about 200 additional #40 clecos. I upgraded the 90 degree numatic drill and have been very happy with there quality and completeness.

I also liked the bench demplier that they sent it was hand activated and did nto require using a hammer to make the dimples alot faster and easier to control and handle.

You are welcome to visit my log at http://websites.expercraft.com/jcrv10/

It is a free web based log system that works great!!

Ishems web site is planetools.com

Shoot me a e-mail if you have any questions.
 
Reamers and dimpling

I inspected holes with 10x magnifier that were drilled then ones that were reamed. Reamed holes had perfectly round/smooth sides compared to drilled holes. I use #41 bit or reamer for -3 rivets because once you dimple your hole in the skins it will increase in size by .002". I ordered another set of #40 dimples for my drdt-2 to grind down the centering pin about .005" so that it will fit in smaller #43 holes. It will make for a better seal when doing the fuel tanks.
 
No need to ream.

A bucked rivet will fill the drilled hole just fine. A million airplanes have been built with normal number 30 and 40 drilled holes. 2000th of an inch on a dimple is normal. For the fuel tanks, buy the Tank dimples because they go a little deeper and allow for more Proseal goop. Let's not get anal about riveting. By the time you install clecos in that hole a couple of times and deburr the hole it is not perfect anyway. Drill on..!!
 
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