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Options to order with wing kit

T

ToadMan8

Member
I placed the order for my slow-build wing kit, and I imagine there are some options that I should be considering at this time.

For one, I believe I need to order fuel level senders. Is it safe to assume the capacitive senders from Van's would be the best bet for whatever glass panels exist when I go to install them a few years from now, or does this warrant more research?

According to http://www.vansaircraft.com/public/kitoptio.htm the only normal option that should be ordered with the wing kit is the leading-edge landing light. Any suggestions in this arena?

I guess I feel like I don't have enough information to know what questions to be asking, and I'd rather not build the damned thing and realize I missed including something afterwards ;)

Any suggestions?

Thank you!!
 
If you have the fuselage already built and plan to mate the wings to it, then it's worth getting the wing root fairings now so that you can mark and drill them after mating the wings. Otherwise, you'll have to reinstall the wings on the fuselage again at least once to do the fairings.

Greg
 
No fuselage yet, just finishing the empennage. I was under the impression that the wings are the next step in the logical progression... no?
 
If you think you'll be doing zero or negative G aerobatics, you should get the flop tube(s) for fuel pickup. And definitely the capacitance fuel sensors.

The landing light (and nav/position lights) option can easily be deferred to later. The time that you really need to worry about these is just before you close the wing up. And even after that, it's not a big deal.

Other things: Pitot mast, pitot heat, autopilot servo, etc. can all wait to later in wing construction.

Oh, and I think the typical progression is:
Tail --> Wings --> Fuselage --> Finishing Kit --> Etc.
 
grayforge said:
If you think you'll be doing zero or negative G aerobatics, you should get the flop tube(s) for fuel pickup. And definitely the capacitance fuel sensors.

The landing light (and nav/position lights) option can easily be deferred to later. The time that you really need to worry about these is just before you close the wing up. And even after that, it's not a big deal.

Other things: Pitot mast, pitot heat, autopilot servo, etc. can all wait to later in wing construction.

Oh, and I think the typical progression is:
Tail --> Wings --> Fuselage --> Finishing Kit --> Etc.
Click to expand...

Any downside to the flop tubes (besides, I assume, cost and weight)? I'd hate to limit myself at this point by not going with such options.

I also heard I should order a quart of pro-seal now.

Great, thanks!
 
Get the upgraded deluxe fuel caps!

I used more than 1 quart of proseal on the tanks. Get 2.

If you want to put some wiring conduit in the wings, you can get that stuff from Van's.

If you want removable wing tips, you can also get the nutplates/screws for holding them on. Van's is also pretty stingy with the encapsulated end pop rivets called out in the plans for the tank support brackets. Get some extras.
 
Not to be disagreeable with anyone, but there are varying opinions on a few things. I originally ordered capacitance fuel senders, but later switched to the floats after reading stories of guys who built their tanks with the capacitance ones and were sorry they did. I was also considering a flop tube, but then I read about how over time they get stiff and won't "flop" anymore. This can lead to running out of fuel with a tank half full, just because the tube is stiff and won't go all the way down (or up). NOT cool! Go the route you choose, just beware that everything is a compromise of some kind, and/or a maintenace issue that you need to watch. I also bought conduit, but later took it back to Vans when I realize I could bundle the wiring with spiral wrap and just use bushings in the ribs. Oh, I only ordered one can of proseal and I still have some left, long after both tanks were finished. Rather than spend the money on 2 cans, I would suggest getting one and build one tank and see how it goes for you. You can always buy more, and it will be fresh when you do.

I do agree on the upgraded fuel caps, though. I splurged for them, and I'm glad I did! They're not that much more when you take into consideration the credit you get from the stock ones.
 
I asked the same question back in January. I'm taking most of the advice I received from SeanB, except for the extra 3/4 x 3/4 x 1/8 angle. (I have a couple of untouched RV-4 longerons already in stock...)

I'm not sure what the problem with capacitance senders seem to be, except for maybe a bit of extra time installing them. There seems to be an awful lot of them out there for them to not be working.

If you go with spiral wrap over conduit in the wings, make REAL SURE you've pulled ALL the wires you need before you wrap them.
 
Like you, I asked this question as well and arrived at this.

Black conduit for the wire run to the wing tip.

Float senders - If you want the option of doing avgas and auto fuel then the capacitive senders wont do.

Dont order the proseal until you get to the tank. There is a shelf life for it.

I went with one flop tube and one of these.

Separate from the wing order I also got two Duckworth aviation light kits (minus the light).

Extra ooops rivets if you need them, I did.
 
Good list Gil!

I did the same: Mine was the Duckworks rectangular light kit. I got the complete halogen kit, since if you get the kit without the halogens, you don't get the reflectors. I needed the reflectors for my DDMworks HID kit: $60 for a pair of HIDs!
 
Leading edge landing lights definitely. My RV-6 has them and they shed so much more usable light than the wingtip lights alone. We went with only wingtip halogen lights only on the RV-8 and they are tiny "pin spots" that don't really light up diddly squat at night :(

I'm also in the float-type fuel gauge senders camp. I know personally of two RVs that were built with capacitive senders and on both of them the senders either failed within the first few months or never worked right from the start. Both planes were replaced with float-type senders and are still working fine a few years later.

As to the flop tubes... my humble opinion is that unless you're also equipping your engine with inverted fuel and oil capability, the flop tubes are a wasted effort and potentially a source of problems as mentioned earlier.

Black plastic conduit for running wires down the wings is a good idea. I also like to install plastic snap grommets in holes in every rib so I can have two wiring paths down thru the wing, physically separated from each other by a little distance, especially if I'm running an antenna coax down the wing. I like to keep any antenna coax and strobe light wiring runs separated from each other as best as possible. HID lights and certain LED lights may also be a concern for induced interference from their wiring.
 
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