Opinions Please (Static Port)

[Brambo]

I bought SafeAir's static system and am about to install the static ports on the side skins However, I am debating whether to install them as most have done with the static port attached to the inside of the skin (more aesthetic ally pleasing, but many have complained of accuracy problems) or attach it to the outside of the skin (less aesthetic but probably more accurate). I thought I would get some quick opinions form the masses. What do you think?

Bill Rambo
RV-7A

 

[robertahegy]

I used the pop rivet static ports from Van's in their static air kit. Works great.

Roberta

 

[Scott Will]

I used the SafAir1 system from the start and always had IAS problems - reading wayyyy low. It was weird to me because my static system seemed to check OK on the ground and in the air (altitude, vertical speed, etc). But then I posted on here and read on lots of other boards that the pop-rivet was the way to go. I should have done that from the start.

So I drilled out my SafAir1 ports to 1/8 to accept the Vans pop rivet and wouldnt you know my airspeed problem pretty much went away. You can read about my trials and tribulations here:

http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=13603&highlight=static+port

My advice... you can use the SafAir1 ports but you must ensure that on the exterior of the aircaft there is a raised surface that emulates the pop rivet... or just use the pop rivet system from the start!!

 

[mburch]

I spent half of today in the tailcone of my 7 installing Cleaveland's static ports. In retrospect, I probably should have just followed the plans and used the cheesy pop rivet method - it would have been cheaper and a lot easier, and it's known to work okay. I hope my fancy static ports work just as well or I'll be most upset!

mcb

 

[clevtool]

Cleaveland Ports

They work great Matt, you won't be disappointed. If you are call me and we will make it right. Setting three rivets on each side and connecting them up is a little more difficult than the glue and stick method, but is a much nicer look and very solid.

For future builders looking at the posts, put the static ports in when the top is open rather than when finishing and it will be a breeze. I recommend back riveting them in as I have noticed a few sets installed with dings from the flush set on the outside.

Mike

 

[kentb]

air dams ?

When talking to another builder and reporting that my AI was indicating about 5 kts low, he suggested that I build a small dam infront of the static port about 1 inch in front and 1/8 to 1/4 inches high.

Has anyone done this?

Kent

 

[Low Pass]

When talking to another builder and reporting that my AI was indicating about 5 kts low, he suggested that I build a small dam infront of the static port about 1 inch in front and 1/8 to 1/4 inches high.

Has anyone done this?

Kent

No, but I need to. I'm thinking about some very small square key stock. Say 1/8". Working up in size until I get it close.

 

[Kevin Horton]

When talking to another builder and reporting that my AI was indicating about 5 kts low, he suggested that I build a small dam infront of the static port about 1 inch in front and 1/8 to 1/4 inches high.

Kent - As I recall, you have Van's pop rivet static ports. If you have definitely ruled out all other possible sources of this airspeed error (e.g. pitot leak, static leak, ASI instrument error, OAT error, test technique or data analysis error, etc), you could do something to stick the pop rivets out in the airflow a bit more. Either switch to a different type rivet with a taller dome, or put new pop rivets in with a thin spacer between the pop rivet dome and the outer face of the skin - e.g. like a thin washer. This will work just as well as a dam, and look a whole lot better.