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fehdxl

Well Known Member
So it was late and I wanted to finish up...you know where this is going.

Anyway, the instructions say, press fit a bushing into the flap attach hole in each of the six W-1025A Flap Hing Brackets... I thought it was talking about the six flap brackets I was looking at, so I drilled/reamed them from 1/4" to 3/8 to fit the bushings.

Now my left flap has a six 3/8" holes where there should be 1/4" holes!

The parts alone for a new flap is $350 plus shipping for an 8' crate.

Can I add a doubler somehow? What do you think my chances of drilling out all those rivets are? Or should I just order all new parts?

Just looking for ideas before making up my mind.

BTW: the moral of the story for me is that successful building almost always occurs before 11:00 pm. For each 15 minute past 11:00, the risk of screwing something up doubles -- this happened at about 00:30.

Thanks!

-Jim
 
I have an "extra" flap off of a flying -10. What parts do you need? My drawings are out at the hanger. Take a pic of what it is and send it to me. Maybe we can work something out.
 
All I really need is those three hinge brackets that hold wing to the left flap.

Unfortunately, to replace them, I'd have to drill out virtually all of the several hundred rivets since those hinges get riveted to pieces first...then all the other stuff is added around them.

I'll ask Van's to see kind of repair is possible...otherwise it'll just be an expensive lesson.

Thanks!

-Jim
 
Here's a picture. The hole at the end of the hinge bracket should be 1/4" ... mine are now 3/8". :-( Can't just put a 3/8" bolt in there because then it would be aluminum rotating on steel and the bracket would wear...hence the purpose of the brass bushing that is what it normally rotates on.

http://img184.imageshack.us/img184/617/img00250ye5.th.jpg
 
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You could probably just use a bigger bushing. You should be able to find one or have somebody mill you one. Much cheaper and easier then building new flaps.
 
Hi Jim,
Yup...you can order a new slow or quickbuild flap. Or, you can just fix what you have....which would be quicker and will save you money (my choice :D).

To fix it all you need to do is fill in the oversized holes with weld, then grind/file/sand them back to the original size/shape and redrill the holes. To get the holes in the exact position I'd make up a little jig from your good flap and use it to drill the holes. If you don't want to fill the oversized holes then you can always make some 'washers' with 1/4" centers and weld those over the holes. Of course you'd have to make a similar jig with a dowel or bolt to line up the washers as you tack them in place.

Easy fix.....I'll bet it doesn't cost you more than $15.

Good luck,


fehdxl said:
Here's a picture. The hole at the end of the hinge bracket should be 1/4" ... mine are now 3/8". :-( Can't just put a 3/8" bolt in there because then it would be aluminum rotating on steel and the bracket would wear...hence the purpose of the brass bushing that is what it normally rotates on.

Click to expand...
 
Weld 2024

Since I don't have any -10 plans, I don't know exactly what material you have but I do know that welding 2024 is not usually recommended.

I think the easiest thing to do would be to get some larger bushings. You can probably find some standard ones from a place like McMaster Carr.

-DC
 
Just a quick tip or maybe not, don't press those bushings into the hinge point until after the bottom skins are on. It makes sliding the slot in the skins much easier over the flap horns. The picture you posted is the flap I know, you do know the bushings go into the solid flap horn on the wing right? Just checking not being a smart a**
 
Rick, I do know that now! Wish I had a couple days ago. Hopefully no one else reading this will make the same mistake.

BTW, I've decided to try and go with a shouldered spacer that will let me use the same -4 bolt, fit in the over-sized hole, and the shoulder part lock tight against the sides.

Still have to ask Van's about the edge distance I reduced on the flap...but I think it'll be okay.

Live and learn.

-Jim
 
That is looks good but I don't know if you really need the flange. But it is more or less what I was talking about.
There will be a few more "adjustments" along the way and remember the KISS principle.
 
That will only work if you shave down the barrel of the bushing.....it can only be as thick as the aileron bracket....obviously. Sorry to say something that you probably already know :rolleyes:.

fehdxl said:
I think I've found what I need... anyone think of a reason why this wouldn't work?

http://aurora.thomasnet.com/item/d-ends-spherical-bearings-bushings-journal-bushing/jb-tfa--tfc-flanged-journal-bushings-sae-as81934-2/ajb-4tfa-005?&seo=110

Thanks for all the replies and ideas! This might not be too big of deal afterall.

-Jim
Click to expand...
 
It was little "projects" like this that made me so happy to have my little lathe. I would think that the bushings you found should work, but I really like brass or bronze for something like this. It would be a pretty small job and I certainly wouldn't tear anything apart as long as a quick bushing would do the trick. I made many parts for the 9A on my Taig--you might consider getting something like that.

Bob Kelly
 
somtimes you get lucky...

The Yard Store had these for a whopping $0.05 each -- so it looks like this mistake cost me 30 cents and 30 minutes of time shaving down the barrell...got lucky!

My [hopefully] final question for you all is what do you think about the flap hinges (in contrast to the wing's flap hing) being able to squeeze together against the wing's flap hinge by sliding on those bushings I just made [see the last picture]. The original design had the brass bushing holding the flap hinges steady in both inward and outward directions...but now they could move inward a bit until it hit the hinge that's attached to the wing.

What do you think? A big deal? Will it make a difference?

Here are a few pictures to illustrate more.

Thanks for your time!

-Jim

 
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