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Old RV6 - New wiring to wing tip

Funguy

Funguy

Well Known Member
I have a RV6 that I did not build but have owned for 17 years. The builder did not install conduit in the wings but did secure the existing wires very well. I have previously tried to run wires from the fuselage to the access port with no success but have always found other solutions. I am now contemplating adding adsb via a Tailbeacon X and while I am sure I can add a new bottom rudder fairing and make it work there, I thought I would take one more kick at the can to run new wiring to the wingtip. Any thoughts on how to accomplish this? All tips and tricks welcome.

Thanks in advance!

Cheers, Sean
 
I pulled the tanks on my 6A and put a conduit behind them. NO more problems now or in the future.
I will say one thing about a conduit. If you go that route. I wouldn't use the corrugated conduit. I used 1/2" standard smooth wall drip irrigation tube. I have gobs of it. Same weight and size as far as I can see. It's also smooth on the inside.
My luck varies Fixit
 
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Funguy said:
I have a RV6 that I did not build but have owned for 17 years. The builder did not install conduit in the wings but did secure the existing wires very well. I have previously tried to run wires from the fuselage to the access port with no success but have always found other solutions. I am now contemplating adding adsb via a Tailbeacon X and while I am sure I can add a new bottom rudder fairing and make it work there, I thought I would take one more kick at the can to run new wiring to the wingtip. Any thoughts on how to accomplish this? All tips and tricks welcome.

Thanks in advance!

Cheers, Sean
Click to expand...

Can you post pictures of how the wires are secured? That would let people offer ideas about how to un-secure them.

Something else to consider is that you should have "easy" access at the wingtip and aileron bellcrank, and somewhat more difficult access at the wing root. It might be possible to drill a series of new holes through your wing ribs using a step drill on a long extension or series of extensions. That is how I added a path for additional wires on my -10 after the wings were completed.
 
Kyle - I only surmised that the existing wires are well tied because I tried to use them as a fishing wire and they refused to budge. I can't actually see them.

The difficulty as fast as I can tell is routing the wires behind the tanks. The step drill with extensions is a plausible approach but that would leave a bunch of holes with no deburring. Removing the tanks would certainly solve the problem but appears daunting.

Thanks for all the advice.

Cheers, Sean
 
Funguy said:
The difficulty as best as I can tell is routing the wires behind the tanks. The step drill with extensions is a plausible approach but that would leave a bunch of holes with no deburring. Removing the tanks would certainly solve the problem but appears daunting.

Thanks for all the advice.

Cheers, Sean
Click to expand...

I'd put the holes/wires aft of the main spars (in locations already approved by Van's) and would insert snap bushings in the holes. I would not run the wires between the tanks and spars. You *can* do it that way, but I wouldn't.
 
Easier than yathink

On a 6 no zee brackets to fight with. Remove screws in skin, root fairing , disconnect things at root, tank lifts out. Me, non builder did this. Was surprised how simple. YMMV
 
Had the same issue when time came to install the OAT sensor in the wing...
ordered these clips from Mouser. They already provide some clamping pressure.

  • Checked for aileron pushrod clearance, in all possible stick positions.
  • Removed the pushrod for access
  • Measured the rib spacing, attached the conduit to each clip with zip ties, then the whole assy to a 2x2 or similar
  • Applied some epoxy to the clips
  • Inserted the assy thru the aileron bellcrank access hole, then used a small hammer to tap the clips on their rib
  • Let dry, remove the 2x2
  • Recheck pushrod clearance in all possible deflections
  • Et voilà :)
 

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My 6A had no lights at all and no wiring in the wings. Pull the tip and use a unibit with a couple lengths of threaded rod and a coupler with a setscrew to hold the bit. Use the tooling holes as your starting point. A helper can guide the bit as it gets deeper in the wing. Then snap bushing in the holes. You can reach all the ribs, not very easily, but it can be done. In this case, the wings were off, so the wingwalk ribs were more accessible. Boy, that was a long time ago!
Deburring is not really required if you are just putting in snap bushings, and the holes are pretty clean anyway.
I think I took a length of hinge pin or similar to pull the wires.
Where there's a will, there's a way. It might take a couple beers to formulate the solution though!
 

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fl-mike said:
My 6A had no lights at all and no wiring in the wings. Pull the tip and use a unibit with a couple lengths of threaded rod and a coupler with a setscrew to hold the bit. Use the tooling holes as your starting point. A helper can guide the bit as it gets deeper in the wing. Then snap bushing in the holes. You can reach all the ribs, not very easily, but it can be done. In this case, the wings were off, so the wingwalk ribs were more accessible. Boy, that was a long time ago!
Deburring is not really required if you are just putting in snap bushings, and the holes are pretty clean anyway.
I think I took a length of hinge pin or similar to pull the wires.
Where there's a will, there's a way. It might take a couple beers to formulate the solution though!
Click to expand...

Mike, nice work.

Secondly, I appreciate the last mid-century drill motor you used to get the work done. I have a very similar one but in all metal. It must have been my father's.
 
If possible use an existing tooling hole that is already in each rib : doing do will assure all of the holes are co-linear and a smooth plastic conduit can easily be slid in place.

Harbor freight sells a set of threaded fish tapes that you can extend, one threaded stick screwed into the next, until it gets to the wing root; where it is used to pull the wires back out.
 
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Adding wiring

fl-mike said:
My 6A had no lights at all and no wiring in the wings. Pull the tip and use a unibit with a couple lengths of threaded rod and a coupler with a setscrew to hold the bit. Use the tooling holes as your starting point. A helper can guide the bit as it gets deeper in the wing. Then snap bushing in the holes. You can reach all the ribs, not very easily, but it can be done. In this case, the wings were off, so the wingwalk ribs were more accessible. Boy, that was a long time ago!
Deburring is not really required if you are just putting in snap bushings, and the holes are pretty clean anyway.
I think I took a length of hinge pin or similar to pull the wires.
Where there's a will, there's a way. It might take a couple beers to formulate the solution though!
Click to expand...
This would be an excellent article to submit to Charlie Becker for posting in Experimental section of Sport Aviation.
 
I installed a carbon fiber tube from the root to the first inspection hole. An Adel clamp holds each end and is bolted to a small piece of angle riveted to the rib web, similar to post #10 from Dan but a tube instead of a bundle. Although I did traditional through hole wiring from the inspection hole to the tip, one could put a tube from the inspection hole to the end rib in a retrofit securing it at each end.
My theory was it’s pretty easy to reach from the end rib to the inspection hole to add wires, but not so easy from the root to the inspection hole.

As with the wire bundle mounted inside the lightening hole, you need to insure you have adequate clearance through the full range of the aileron push tube motion. Mine has plenty. Also, carbon fiber is abrasive so protect the wires from chaffing as it enters and exits the tube. It’s there if ever I need it and the tubing weighs next to nothing and is cheap. 4’ piece from TAP is $10.
Just another idea.
 
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Funguy said:
Jonjay - That's as promising solution. What ID and OD?

Cheers, Sean
Click to expand...

I believe it’s 1/8” x 1/2 but might be 3/4. I’ll have to measure. I did it more than 16 years ago! Check TAP Plastics to see what’s available.
 
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