Old Kit Elevator Trailing Edges

[md9680]

The elevators are the last two pieces, other than the tips, left to construct in my tail kit. I was wondering if the current kit elevator skins are match drilled along both upper and lower trailing edges and if the AEX wedge is also match drilled like they are for the rudder.

My older (12 years) tail kit has only one side of the trailing edge pre-punched with instructions to clamp the wedge between the upper and lower edge together and match drill through the wedge and the other side of the skin.

I'll do whatever is necessary, of course, but if the newer kits are pre-drilled, I would consider ordering new skins and wedges.

Thanks for your replies.

 

[Av8torTom]

Same

Mike, my kit is about a year old and is the same as you describe.
No real challenge to drill.

Tom

 

[md9680]

That's all I was wanting to know. Thanks.

 

[Av8torTom]

Drill guide

Mike, the plans call for a specific angle to hold the drill when doing the trailing edges. Make a drill guide with the correct angle from a block of wood and hold the drill bit against it as you match drill. Also, drill into the bench top and cleco to the bench as you go along. I used Proseal to "glue" the tailing edges together a week before riveting. I don't think this is really necessary - I did not do that when I riveted the trailing edges of the flaps and they are true and straight. The key is to set the middle rivets, then the ends, then keep halving the distance, and only partially set them using a squeezer. After they are all partially set, repeat the process using a mushroom head set (not a back rivet set) and back rivet them to final dimension. The shop head will not completely fill the dimple, but it will be pretty close.

Good luck,

Tom

 

[Vlad]

Kit 91449 from 2006 is the same as well.

 

[md9680]

Mike, the plans call for a specific angle to hold the drill when doing the trailing edges. Make a drill guide with the correct angle from a block of wood and hold the drill bit against it as you match drill. Also, drill into the bench top and cleco to the bench as you go along. I used Proseal to "glue" the tailing edges together a week before riveting. I don't think this is really necessary - I did not do that when I riveted the trailing edges of the flaps and they are true and straight. The key is to set the middle rivets, then the ends, then keep halving the distance, and only partially set them using a squeezer. After they are all partially set, repeat the process using a mushroom head set (not a back rivet set) and back rivet them to final dimension. The shop head will not completely fill the dimple, but it will be pretty close.

Good luck,

Tom

Thanks, Tom, for your lengthy reply. Yes, that's the procedure described in the manual regarding the angle guide and I intend to use it. Did the rudder using Proseal but it didn't turn out as nice as I had hoped because I simply had too much Proseal in some places. Not enough to reject the finished work, but hardly "perfect". I really don't think I need the Proseal and have a local builder friend who obtained excellent results without it.

Vlad, thanks for your report as well. My kit number is 90174.

 

[JSOliveira]

Proseal not needed

I did not use pro seal, my feeling is that it just create a mess. I also did not pre set rivets with a squeezer, but just followed vans instructions and all the control surfaces came out great. True, clean, and neat.

John Oliveira
90054
N709RV Flying

 

[kbehrent]

While you building you elevators, consider using AEX on the trailing edge of the trim tab. It works great, adds strength and looks better. I also added extra foam blocks for added strength.

When I decided to replace my original trim tab, I called Van's and asked if I could get the trim tab skin without the fold. They said no problem and I also purchased extra aex. Once it arrived, I cut in in half, clecoed the rear trim spar to skin, mounted and than trimmed the trailing edge to match with elevator. prosealed the extra foam blocksand riveted the aex trailing edge. Instead on binding the end tabs, I built separate ribs and riveted them in giving it a nice square edge.