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Oil Separator Return Line

W

WenEng

Well Known Member
Patron
Thought you would enjoy seeing what I removed from my in-progress IO360B1E modification. This came from a Piper Arrow and I can only guess it was an oil separator return line to the #4 cylinder oil return line. I think Mel told me that a couple years ago. I replaced it with a standard line. That was on a certified aircraft. Maybe so, but it sure looks odd. I'm not throwing it away just yet....
http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=WenEng&project=665&category=0&log=167862&row=3
 
Believe you are correct Wendell. It might not be pretty; but I bet it was effective & worked just fine. :)
 
Return to sender...

WenEng said:
Thought you would enjoy seeing what I removed from my in-progress IO360B1E modification. This came from a Piper Arrow and I can only guess it was an oil separator return line to the #4 cylinder oil return line. I think Mel told me that a couple years ago. I replaced it with a standard line. That was on a certified aircraft. Maybe so, but it sure looks odd. I'm not throwing it away just yet....
http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=WenEng&project=665&category=0&log=167862&row=3
Click to expand...

You are dead on Wendell, those work great when hooked up correctly. I built one nearly the same for my RV4 15 years ago by welding "T" to the middle of an oil return line. Worked great.
On the RVX however I removed a Rocker Box Cover and drilled a hole, installed a fitting and drain my M-20 separator into it there. Simple and effective.

V/R
Smokey

PS:FYI, on my HR2 I installed a Slime Fighter which requires no return line. Very effective and simple.
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/slimeftr.php
 
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What a simple idea, Smokey

Sometimes a real simple, effective idea just stares you in the face waiting
to be discovered. Your solution is an example. Thanks
 
How can I remove this Oil Return Plug in Accy Case?

Its behind the governor pad on the outboard side of the accy case. I broke four sockets/adapters trying to get this darn plug out. Admittedly, I started with 1/4 inch drive for space issues. So, tearing the end off a 3/8 to 1/4 adapter is understandable, as well as fracturing the side out of a 1/4 drive 5/16 socket. But with the 3/8 drive, I broke two hex sockets (5/16 and 8MM) too. I drowned it in penetrating oil. I tried heat gun. No joy. Tried propane torch on low for what seemed a long time. No joy. The engine is such a heat sink, it seems to cool down quickly. I cut an 1 1/2 inch piece of hex wrench and inserted into a strong 3/8 drive 5/16 socket normally used on hammer air wrench. No joy. Using a 16 inch wrench on a 12 inch extension. What is the secret?
o4z.jpg

o4I.jpg

o4Y.jpg
 
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A few words about heat.

If the goal is to release one of the Loctite thread locker products, heat the steel fitting. How hot depends on the product; see the TDS. You're not actually loosening the interference fit, just breaking down a chemical bond.

To loosen a steel fitting in an aluminum case you want the case as hot as possible and the steel fitting as cold as possible. The coefficient of thermal expansion for aluminum is roughly twice that of steel. The idea is to grow the diameter of the hole in the case more than the diameter of the steel fitting, thus reducing the interference fit.

Monitor the temperature of the aluminum with a handheld IR thermometer. It's like the Three Bears and the porridge; you want it not too hot and not too cold. Most folks don't heat enough. 400~500F is nice if you can get it. 1100F is near melting point.
 
Thanks Mike. Needed some encouragement....

I've used muscle on lots of engine bolts. I have never used the muscle I used on this darned plug. Maybe I'm getting older and weaker than I thought. :)
Did what Mike said. LOTS of heat. Medium flame for 5 minutes, round and round, primarily on the case (Thanks Dan). Bingo! You know that feeling when something gives it up just a little? Thats what happened. Crazy, but the threads looked clean except for the outer 2. Job done. New oil return line installed for the ASA oil separator.

o4M.jpg

The twist in that hex piece is real.
o4R.jpg
 
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