Jim,
I just did those, so I can tell you what I did. I did end up getting the latch pretty flush with the cowl door. I am using the 5000-2 latch (rectangular latch with flip-up arm).
* Check what latch "offset" you have. There are different sizes, and the offset is stamped on the underside of the latch arm/button. You probably want the .125 offset.
* Make your oil door extra thick. I think I made mine around 10 plies. It will not flex this way, and it provides a sturdy base for the mount and hinge.
* Cut out the latch opening.
* Hold the latch in place. It will likely be recessed in the door, and there will be a gap between the latch frame and the inside of the door. Trace around the latch on the inside.
* Use a dremel tool with the cylinder grinder. You should be able to hold it vertical. You will want to slowly aug-out the areas on the underside near the ends. If you take your time, it is really not hard. As you start to remove material, the latch will get closer to flush and the gap on the underside in the middle will lessen.
* When the latch is fully flush on the outside, there will likely still be a gap on this inside. Mix up a thick slurry of micro/flox epoxy, and lay it thick all over the area where the latch will sit.
* Tape/wax the latch, then cleclo or clamp it in place to the door. The epoxy mix will make a smooth surface for the latch to mount to, and the latch will be flush on the outside. While the mix was drying, I put an .032 piece (or whatever the latch end will catch on) under the arm to ensure that it dries in the "finished" orientation.
Hope that helps.
Scott
7A Finsihing
