Wanted to see if anyone had good suggestion for removal of flush nut plate rivet. Had one shop head deform as squeezer not centered we'll on shop head. Deformed head looks like it cracked as well so planning to replace it. Have read other threads on removing rivets. Most talk about an470 style not flush. Assume process is same to drill with smaller drill maybe like #42 just to depth of head then try to pop head loose. Head is captured in countersink with flush rivet so not sure if this works. Once head is gone can remainder be tapped out from material and nut plate if nut plate flange is supported. Wondering how tight rivet is in material and also nut plate. Should I drill smaller hole in center deeper than just head? This relates to nutplates on HS-1202 stab front spar where HS-1224 doublers and nutplates are riveted per step 5 page 09-04. Always appreciate the expert feedback for this first time builder.
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Nutplate Rivet Removal
- Thread starter hjd3021
- Start date
Golf Echo
Active Member
John,
I'm a first time builder as well (so take this for what it's worth), but in my experience the method you describe works well for me. The key is getting the drill centered on the rivet head. Using a center punch to make the center dimple in the factory head more prominent will help. So will turning the drill chuck by hand a few revolutions on the center mark before starting the drill.
There is an EAA video here that covers the technique.
Good luck!
I'm a first time builder as well (so take this for what it's worth), but in my experience the method you describe works well for me. The key is getting the drill centered on the rivet head. Using a center punch to make the center dimple in the factory head more prominent will help. So will turning the drill chuck by hand a few revolutions on the center mark before starting the drill.
There is an EAA video here that covers the technique.
Good luck!
Nutplate removal
Drill both rivet heads and tap out the nutplate with shop heads attached. Toss the nutplate. Use a #40 bit and only drill as deep as the supporting material. A second bit can be used to pop the factory head. Don't drill thru the supporting material and you won't enlarge the hole.
Drill both rivet heads and tap out the nutplate with shop heads attached. Toss the nutplate. Use a #40 bit and only drill as deep as the supporting material. A second bit can be used to pop the factory head. Don't drill thru the supporting material and you won't enlarge the hole.
nutplate rivet
Gasman has it, the rivet only holds the nutplate in place until you use it. I wouldn't bother with it. If you've started the process, and the mfg head is gone, use your spring loaded drill marker and snap it on the rivet stem. The remainder of the rivet should fly away. Might take two snaps. Be sure the nut plated is supported, clamp it or put a screw in it.
Gasman has it, the rivet only holds the nutplate in place until you use it. I wouldn't bother with it. If you've started the process, and the mfg head is gone, use your spring loaded drill marker and snap it on the rivet stem. The remainder of the rivet should fly away. Might take two snaps. Be sure the nut plated is supported, clamp it or put a screw in it.
Thanks for the feedback. I closely examined the shop head tonight with a higher power magnifier inspection lens. As it turns out the marks are not cracks but indentations apparently from my squeezer die when it slipped. The shop head is deformed and has a larger diameter than normal. Measures about 0.135 x 0.2 kind of oblong. Squeezed height is about right according to rivet gauge. Almost looks like the rivet may have been longer than the others therefor more material for shop head. it may be possible that i had a longer one in the parts drawer and just did not see the subtle difference. Planning to send a couple of pictures to Vans for an opinion. Continuing to learn more on this project everyday.
Here are a couple photos that show the issue
Here are a couple photos that show the issue
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RV7AJeremy
Well Known Member
Replace for me
Probably structurally ok like others have said but for me I would replace it. I wouldn't want rivets that look like that anywhere on my plane. I spend a descent amount of time looking at all the aircraft at work and I have never seen anything that looks like that. (Hopefully that doesn't come across as rude, just my opinion)
Remove it like any other rivet; for nut plates I found that I have to drill out both rivets and start over. I also found that I could take some pliers and twist out the shop head after the factory heads were drilled out and it is off the part. Then I could reuse the nut plate.
Good luck
Probably structurally ok like others have said but for me I would replace it. I wouldn't want rivets that look like that anywhere on my plane. I spend a descent amount of time looking at all the aircraft at work and I have never seen anything that looks like that. (Hopefully that doesn't come across as rude, just my opinion)
Remove it like any other rivet; for nut plates I found that I have to drill out both rivets and start over. I also found that I could take some pliers and twist out the shop head after the factory heads were drilled out and it is off the part. Then I could reuse the nut plate.
Good luck
Jeremy -thanks for the reply. I agree with your comment and that is why I had asked for the feedback originally to make sure I had the best plan for removal. I can't accept the way it looks and I know if I do I will compromise the quality job I am strving very hard to do even if as you say it may be structurally OK.
RV7AJeremy
Well Known Member
Great. Sounds like you have the right mindset. 
Thanks to all for the advice. I decided to replace the rivet even though Vans tech support said it would be OK as it was. It did not satisfy me. I guess I just needed to convince myself I could replace it without damaging other parts. I took my time as it was my first flush rivet removal. I clamped the spar in my mill that I have and was able to accurately use a center drill to start the initial hole. Drilled it out then with #42 drill and was able to break head loose and then punched out remainder after drilling deeper inti rivet. No damage to hole. Replaced with new rivet and now I am happy with the workmanship. I'm sure I will be faced with more removals but glad this one is done. Thanks to all who have posted the helpful info in this forum.
yankee-flyer
Well Known Member
As said
above, all that rivet is doing is keeping the nutplate from turning while the bolt is inserted. You're never going to be able to see 95% of the nutplates when the plane is finished and not many of them have the bolts repeatedly installed and removed.
Famous engineering dictum" "Better is the enemy of Good Enough".
Wayne 120241/143WM
above, all that rivet is doing is keeping the nutplate from turning while the bolt is inserted. You're never going to be able to see 95% of the nutplates when the plane is finished and not many of them have the bolts repeatedly installed and removed.
Famous engineering dictum" "Better is the enemy of Good Enough".
Wayne 120241/143WM
az_gila
Well Known Member
Since it's a nutplate, it can be regarded as disposable.
Use a dremel and grind the shop heads completely off. The nutplate and both rivets should just aboout fall off at that time.
You might find this approach quicker than carefully drilling out the rivets from the mfg. side.
Use a dremel and grind the shop heads completely off. The nutplate and both rivets should just aboout fall off at that time.
You might find this approach quicker than carefully drilling out the rivets from the mfg. side.
