Nose Gear movement at engine mount socket

[DavidLowy]

While pulling my 6A into the hangar the other day I noticed a "creaking" noise when side load was applied to the nose gear.

I pulled the cowl off and discovered that there is some rotational movement where the gear leg enters the engine mount socket. Black "dust" suggests that it is wearing at this location. I didn't see any movement or dust at the attachment bolt higher up. I understand that movement at the mount socket is not normal; it should be a snug fit.

I would welcome any ideas as to how I can fix this.

Assuming there is no imminent danger of nose gear collapse I am hoping the repair can wait until winter. (am planning to go to OSHKOSH). Am I risking more expensive repairs by waiting?

Would removing the gear leg at this time give me any additional useful information? If so, can I arrest or slow down the wear by applying some kind of epoxy before I put it back on? Or should I grease the area that is wearing until I can implement a permanent fix? Would this put too much stress on the attachment bolt?

This thread seems to deal with a similar issue: http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=17871&highlight=nose+gear+creaking but as I said I don't think that in my case the twisting is caused by a problem at the bolt, but rather with a loose fit between the leg and the socket.

Any assistance with this would be greatly appreciated.

Dave

 

[pdecraene7a]

Nose gear movement

Dave

I had the same issue a couple of years ago and called Vans. I was told to just tighten the bolt slightly a keep an eye on it for movement in the future. My plan was to weld the hole and redrill if it got worse. I flew it for 2 years without a problem and then took it off to change my 7A to a taildragger. When I pulled it there seem to be no movement.

 

[GrayHawk]

Mine also; but I believe mine was caused by drilling out the bolt hole to 3/8" very early in the planes life before I took it over (no black dust anywhere on the nose gear). The drilling was sloppy. Even though the leg has been replaced with an excellent match drilling to close tolerance, the engine mount hole remains 'sloppy'. I just keep a close eye on it and change the bolt every year (probably not necessary).

I'll see if I can get a comparison photo of my bolts for you all to laugh at.

 

[DavidLowy]

Van's suggests replacing bushing

I just heard back from Van's on the issue. They said that the mount socket contains a bushing that can be removed and a new bushing installed. Not an easy job, and would first require removing the engine mount....ouch.

Pete, too bad the guy that told you to simply tighten a bolt didn't answer my call!

Thanks for your replies. Anyone else ever experience this problem?

 

[AlexPeterson]

snip

Or should I grease the area that is wearing until I can implement a permanent fix? Would this put too much stress on the attachment bolt?

snip

Dave

This entire socket area should be greased with a heavy grease, both the upper and lower contact areas. I'd put a good glob in between the areas as well (the necked area between the ground contact areas).

 

[Bob Hoffman]

dave,
Sent you a P.M.
Bob

 

[Bob Hoffman]

Pete (pdecrane7a),
sent you a P.M..
Bob

 

[gasman]

NOSE GEAR MAINTENANCE

While pulling my 6A into the hangar the other day I noticed a "creaking" noise when side load was applied to the nose gear.

I pulled the cowl off and discovered that there is some rotational movement where the gear leg enters the engine mount socket.

I don't think that in my case the twisting is caused by a problem at the bolt, but rather with a loose fit between the leg and the socket.

Any assistance with this would be greatly appreciated.

Dave

I use 150 lbs if barbell waights and a 500 lb cap. small (size of your fist) chain hoist and pull down the tail to check the air pressure in the nose wheel about every three months.

During that time, I check the wheel bearings by spinning the wheel and shake it to check for play. I also grab the entire nose assy, and shake it right to left to see if there is any play in the one bolt that holds the entire strut on.

The last thing that I do, is lift the wheel to check for play in the lower bushing of the motor mount that the strut fits in. You can also pound the lower bend of the strut with your fist, the gear will clatter if there is play.

I did find play in the lower bushing. It was .005" But at the wheel, it moved about 1/8" up and down. As a temporary fix, I placed a .005" shim under the strut in the lower part of the bushing. Tied it off with safety wire to keep in one place till I can get a new bushing and figure out how to change it without removing the motor mount from the A/C. This should be a good temp. fix due to the fact that the load is on the top of the bushing.

If you don't remove the play, it will just beat it's self up.