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Nose gear attach bolt clearance with firewall?

Pmerems

Well Known Member
Advertiser
Those who have passed this way before me.

I am working on some odds and ends and I need to finalize the nose gear attach bolt/firewall issue.

Attached is a photo. I installed the electric fuel pump re-enforcing plate (per plan). As you can see the lower nutplate interferes with engine mount. Not a big deal to grind down (mount is only temporally installed). I am going with IO-360 and will install the high-pressure electric pump from Van?s. So I don't need to use the nutplates anyway and I was going to plug them.

The real question is about the nose gear attach bolt clearance. Once I grind down the nutplate, the bolt head will just about touch or even interfere with the firewall. The plans call for a ?? or 1? hole depending on which drawing you look at. If a hole were punched then a metal plug would need to be inserted into the hole. I envision the type used to plug unwanted holes in metal sinks. These can be found at most hardware stores. The plug would need to be inserted from the rear of the firewall. However I believe the retention fingers on the plug might interfere with the bolt and mount as well.
engine-mount.jpg


I had read about some builders who just ?dent? the firewall where the bolts head is to give clearance for the head. The would mean that in order to take the nose gear leg off, you would need to pull the engine mount forward about 2 inches. I imagine that if you need to replace the bolt or remove the nose gear leg the you probably had something bad happen so pulling the engine and mount is probably the least of ones worries.

What have other builders done in this situation? Post some photos if possible

On a side note, where have you RV-7/9A builders using IO engines brought the fuel line through the firewall. I am considering bringing it through the electric fuel pump re-enforcing plate on the firewall right near the nose gear bolt location.

Any help would be appreciated.

Paul
 
I have an IO engine and had some of the same problems you did. I simply removed the offending nutplate and RTVd a piece of AL over the holes. For the fuel line, I ran it right thru the reinforcing plate as you mentioned.

Regarding the 3/4" hole... I had to enlarge my hole slightly so when it came time to put the plug, I enlarged the hole on the top side. I took another piece of AL with a perfect 3/4" hole and put the reinforcing plate and plug in the firewall. The thin AL sheet seals the larger gap. Also used some RTV here. The fingers dont interfere with the mount, perhaps because it goes thru a piece of AL as well. No pictures - sorry.
 
Somewhere (finishing kit?) you should have a plug for the hole in the f/w to access the nose gear bolt.

Here's a picture from the inside of my f/w showing the nose gear bolt hole, hole for the throttle cable (horizontal induction) and fuel line with a doubler that I added.
IMG_1400.jpg


The fuel line is close to the location recommended in the drawings, but I moved it inboard slightly to avoid interference with the starter contactor.

Dave
 
Pmerems said:
........ and I need to finalize the nose gear attach bolt/firewall issue.......The real question is about the nose gear attach bolt clearance. What have other builders done in this situation? ...... Paul
Paul,
On my 6A, I reversed the orientation of the gear attach bolt and shaved just enough of the threads at an angle consistent with its relationship to the firewall to assure positive clearance. With the self-locking nut in place, adequate thread protrusion exists even with the shaved off threads. After 170+ hours, everything seems to be just fine.
 
Had the same issue

But I went the "IO" route so I simply removed the nutplates and gooped up the holes.

The 3/4" metal plug is actually used for plugging open conduit holes in your home electrical panel...Its amazing what you learn when you scratchbuild your own house!...Anyway, you will notice that "electrical Sizes" are not real sizes....the 3/4" plug is not really 3/4"...Can't remember what it is but its not what is advetised.

Anyway I had to make my hole bigger so the bolt head would clear...I wnet up to the 1" (electrical) plug.

Cheers

Frank
 
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