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No Bushings for the Stabilator Cables?

MartySantic

MartySantic

Well Known Member
Has anyone noticed?

See Figure 1 on Page 32-14. The stabilator cables are routed thru the forward and aft flange of the center section bulkhead (F-1204A and D) and then thru the baggage bulkhead (F-1206A). Per the plans, bushings are not shown on the figure nor have they been inserted via a plan step. This is the ONLY place where bushings have NOT been specified when cables pass thru a flange.

Was this an oversight?
 
I just happened to be working on that today myself. I was going to see tomorrow if when all is done (pullies etc) if the cables actually touch any part of the holes. You will remember that the rudder cables go through some oblong holes by the gear that have no bushings. I'm sure gettin tired of putting
 
didn't get to finish....???? anyway...did you also notice that the foward most hole for the rudder clamp is the same hole that we have already used for a washer screw (grounding). Tom Green told me to through out the screw and just juse the clamp bolt for all of em.

Also...you need an AN 4-14a for your pullies. There are none in the finish kit but you should have extra left in your fuse kit.
 
Did the same with the most forward hole. I did not have a left over 14A so I called Van's and told them it was in the plans but NOT supplied. They sent me one.

With regard to the holes, the stabilator holes are all circular and ALL other circular holes have bushings.
 
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Just a random thought

I have not looked to see where the tighteners end up, but could it be that they might be next to one or both of those holes. Maybe there was a chance of knocking off lock wires ?

John Bender
 
I am also at that stage. I am going to wait until you guys get this resolved before I install those cables.

I have another question. On the rudder cables it just says pull them tight and mark the holes then drill. How tight??? On the other cables(stabilator) you can adjust them(turn buckles) with a tension meter to 35 to 45 lbs. On the rudder cables what ever you drill in is it. No a adjustments in this cable. No turn buckles You really have to get them right the first time. I guess you just pull them tight ,drill and call it good. Is this the way other RVs are?? Other aircraft I have built have adjustable rudder cables.


Brad Stiefvater
 
The tensioner is not on the RV-12 tool list BUT the plans tell us to borrow one to set the cable tension for the stabilator. For the RV-12 rudder cables there is NO adjustment. The plans tell us to pull the cables tight and drill a link.

The BURROUGHS CABLE GAUGE ($180) was the gauge we used at the LSA Repairman's course recently attended. Seemed to work just fine!!

HOW is the rudder cable tension set on the RV9??
 
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RV9A Rudder cable tension

... in short, no tension at all. Both rudder pedals are completely independant, and run on one of each of 2 parallel rotating tubes. The L rudder connection comes from the end of the pedal on the pilot side, and the R rudder from the passenger side. Set the pedals at the right position and then connect each pedal independantly. The weight of your foot on the pedal (not the upper part which activates the brakes) keeps the cables in tension, but if you push one rudder, it will lessen the tension on the other. Bit like the handlebars on a bike.....

Easy...

Allan
 
AllanC said:
... in short, no tension at all. Both rudder pedals are completely independant, and run on one of each of 2 parallel rotating tubes. The L rudder connection comes from the end of the pedal on the pilot side, and the R rudder from the passenger side. Set the pedals at the right position and then connect each pedal independantly. The weight of your foot on the pedal (not the upper part which activates the brakes) keeps the cables in tension, but if you push one rudder, it will lessen the tension on the other. Bit like the handlebars on a bike.....

Easy...

Allan
Click to expand...

Ditto same for the RV7 rudder, it is set to 1 foot pound each! :D Your left foot and your right foot. :)

But the RV12 uses control cables for the other control surfaces, there I would suspect another method, and maybe cable tension is important there. I see from the recent zodiac incidents, there cable tension is critical.

Rudi
 
Guess I should have thought about that a little bit before I posted. Makes perfect sense . The rudders being independent and not linked togather at the front is the answer as to why it is this way. I feel dumb for asking now. Oh well it was a late night in the shop.

Thanks guys

Brad Stiefvater
 
mcems said:
I am also at that stage. I am going to wait until you guys get this resolved before I install those cables.

I have another question. On the rudder cables it just says pull them tight and mark the holes then drill. How tight??? On the other cables(stabilator) you can adjust them(turn buckles) with a tension meter to 35 to 45 lbs. On the rudder cables what ever you drill in is it. No a adjustments in this cable. No turn buckles You really have to get them right the first time. I guess you just pull them tight ,drill and call it good. Is this the way other RVs are?? Other aircraft I have built have adjustable rudder cables.


Brad Stiefvater
Click to expand...

Yeah Brad,

I just built the box, pulled em tight and they seem to work fine. You could always tighten em up later with new steel "bars" if you didn't like the flex I guess. But Ive sat in mine and worked em back and forth and that ole rudder just jumps. Be sure to turn the aft "wired" plastic sheath to the indsides because they will hit the edge of the back triangle hole if on the outside.
 
Stab cable

So i did my stab cables with the tensionmeter today. It worked great...the cables run smack dab through the middle of both the holes without the bushings...never come anywhere near the sides. Good luck finding a tensionmeter to borrow....they are very expensive and most RV's are rods, no cables...so you're rv friends can't help you. You have to find an A&P that works with Pipers etc and talk him into letting you borrow his $500 piece of equip...arrrghhh. There is no point in buying one for a once a year event.
 
By thread drift, the original question never got answered. I am running stab cables, and my page 32-14 shows the cables running thru holes in the 1204a, 1204b, and 1206a to NOT use a plastic bushing. This seems odd to me, has that ever been resolved?
 
Actually, we can

fix, add, modify, or any of that AFTER you get your airworthiness certificate. I added the bushings at the first annual at the same time as I split the baggage panel and floor so I don't have to pull the tank. If I'd thought about the bushings earlier I'd have installed them during the build on the assumption that any inspector who was dedicated enough to get back in there would also have been savvy enough to approve them.

Yes, I did have to split the bushings to get them over the cables when installing them. but I put a little black silicone around the holes before snapping the bushings in place and they're still there.

Wayne 120241/143WM
 
That was a tongue in cheek response of course, I doubt any DAR or FSDO would fail one because of that added bushing.
 
I know, Don

but it did dawn on me that perhaps how to do it later might help someone. I don't remember who told me to split the bushing. Wayne
 
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