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Need a moveable fuse fixture...

airguy

Unrepentant fanboy
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My fuse kit is on order, and space constraints are going to require me to have a rolling fuse stand similar to my rolling wing stand. My first thought was just to convert and enlarge my wing stand, but I thought I would ask here first since it's likely several have "been there, done that". I would LIKE to have a rotisserie style rolling setup, but I NEED something that I can roll around the shop on casters and we'll worry about LIKE after that. Parking rights negotations with my wife have broken down and I will have to be able to move my fuse off to the side in order for her to park in the garage in the evenings. I've got enough room to do that (barely) as long as I can roll my fuse stand around.

Anybody got some pics of something they've built, borrowed, or stolen for this?
 
You won't need a rotisserie/stand for some time during the fuse build. First will be the tail cone (can do on sawhorses or a bench), then the mid fuse section and front. The sections will be attached in stages - when all three done, then you will need the stand. A fixed stand on casters is easiest, but the rotisserie for me was best for ease of access and saves my back (plus I can rotate the fuse about 45 degrees and gain a little extra clearance when I pull the car in). Here are a few shots of my rig, which I have modified further. Vertical posts are square steel tubes, rest is 2X4's and plywood gussets. A long 2X4 connects the stands (not seen in pics). If you want, PM me for additional and more detailed pics.
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That's pretty close to what I had in mind, I can simply cut my current wing stand in the middle and add a pair of casters to get the same thing you show - how did you manage the rotation where it connects to the stands?
 
The rotation is via an iron pipe (fixed to the fuse attachments via a flange) that rotate inside of copper pipe pieces (that are hose clamped to the support saddles), all scavenged from the local HD/Lowe's type store. Off the vertical supports is a horizontal steel angle, to which I fashioned a pipe saddle with a 2X2. The hose clamps hold the copper pipe and wood saddle to the angle piece. On the front, the pipe end opposite the fuse attachment has another flange that is bolted to a lever arm. The lever arm swings about a 'clutch plate' that has indexed holes to lock the arm (or use a clamp). This plate is bolted to the vertical post. The firewall attachment is a series of steel L-angles bolted to the firewall at the engine mounts attachment points. I significantly undersized the holes from the final size needed for the engine mount, as that needs to be done in assembly.
All flanges were torqued on the pipes with a long lever, and torque seal applied to ensure they don't unscrew. The rear pipe just has a cap piece opposite the fuse. The 2X4 block that fits against the rear bulkhead is attached with 2 bolts through the tooling holes already in the bulkhead.
Additionally, I had to make provisions for the fuse step when I added that as per the last pic. As a final note, the front pipe is 39.5 " off the floor, and the rear 41". The tail pipe has an offset so the pipe aims into the bottom of the bulkhead - this worked out well with the front pipe placement at the firewall so that there is an even roll. Hope this helps... .

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