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Necessary to pre-bend F-771 Forward Top Skin?

phenriks

I'm New Here
My F-771 Forward Top Skin (tip-up) is not matching the contour of the side skins very well, especially towards the front. Not quite sure if a little more force with the cleco's, and/or riveting, will just solve the problem.

Anyone pre-bend the F-771, and/or rolled the edges, before riveting?
 
My F-771 Forward Top Skin (tip-up) is not matching the contour of the side skins very well, especially towards the front. Not quite sure if a little more force with the cleco's, and/or riveting, will just solve the problem.

Anyone pre-bend the F-771, and/or rolled the edges, before riveting?

Yep. Make it fit. Build on.
 
ditto

I noticed the same thing when fitting the forward top skin. It was necessary to start at top middle and cleco every hole to pull the skin down and negotiate the bend. I am strongly considering building a round bending brake to prebend the sides of the forward top skin to take some of the stress off.
 
F-771

I riveted mine in place a few months ago. I used my Avery Roller Edge Bender to put a modest bend on the two outside edges to better conform to the skin that overlies the longerons. At first, nothing seemed to align, but after plenty of discussion with F-771, it finally conceded and all went well! Take your time and it'll turn out well.

Jim N891DD
RV-7A 99+ % complete
 
I don't have a -7, nor have I built one. However, I just went through this same scenario (many times) building the aft fuse of a -12. Our -12 plans tell us where we need to 'break' the edges and on which skins, so that there isn't an unsightly gap after riveting. My .02-cents is that like someone else mentioned, the Avery edge roller is a cool little tool and works fantastic! It takes a little practice on some scrap, but then it takes very little time and effort to make a really subtle edge break/bend on the skin. If the skin you mentioned needs a little help, the edge rolling tool should work fantastic. I am also aware of another version that is supposed to work with even less effort (the vise-grip style with rollers welded on), but I already had the Avery version and it worked very nicely. If you end up doing this procedure, just be sure to not work on one little area for very long. In other words, make long sweeping motions with the edge roller as you work your way down the skin. You kind of have to keep a little angle and pressure on the tool, which is forcing the aluminum to slightly bend between the wheels as you move it along. Long sweeping motions will keep you from having a wavy edge. Don't use a lot of pressure on the tool since you only want a very subtle bend. Works great! I bet it would help too, in the situation you describe.
 
Another trick...

Another trick is to roll the whole panel inside a piece of carpet, ie lay an oversize piece of carpet down on a flat surface, place the panel onto it and 'roll' the whole lot up to kind of form a large tube. Do this a few times, first starting from one side and then the other and the panel will start to take on a natural curve. Putting a little more pressure on the edge sections helps to form the tighter radius where it's needed in these areas. Just be careful you don't get carried away and crease the panel while you are doing it.

This combined with the Avery edge roller mentioned earlier takes a lot of the fight out of fitting this panel. Can't take credit for this one, I seem to recall finding the idea somewhere on this forum.

Clive Whittfield
 
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