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Multimaster clone?

Or Dremel Multimax?

Early this morning I was hunting online for the Multimaster at a reasonable price without success. I came across the Dremel Multimax which retails for about $100 with accessories. Lowes carries them so I'm heading for the local Lowes later today.

Here's a link http://www.dremel.com/en-us/Tools/Pages/ToolDetail.aspx?pid=6300-01#kits

and an online source http://www.acetoolonline.com/DREMEL-290-01-Engraver-p/dre-6300-01.htm

There's a Harbor Freight close to me too. I'll check them out today too and let you know how the tool looks. So much of Harbor Freight stuff is really poorly made but the price ($50) sure is attractive. At that price it's worth the risk.
 
I dunno guys....I'd be hesitant to try cutting canopy plexiglass with any oscillating blade.

An ordinary 3" cutoff wheel is a reliable plexi cutter.....and they're cheap. Pick one with a good solid blade guard; the guard gives you a second handhold for fine guidance. Cut with the plexi surface tangent to the edge of the disk, not across the diameter, two passes, first almost through but not quite.

A handheld 3 x 18 belt sander quickly does all the fine trimming.
 
cutoff wheel

As good as a cutoff wheel works on plexi, it would be hard for me to recommend anything else. Buzzing blade on that canopy sounds risky...

2 cents,
Chris
 
I don't know about the clone, but building two Cozy MkIV's we used both a rotary dremel with a cutoff wheel on one plane and a Fein Multimaster on the other. The Fein with the bi-metal blade cut the canopy glass like butter,,,no melting like the cutoff wheel. And can that thing cut fiberglass!!!! It will also cut metal with no problem's, just be sure to use the bi-metal blade for added life. Cutting composites with anything but will trash the blade in short order. Doesn't look like the clone brand has the optional blade choices as does the real thing, nor the power or durability. IMHO you get what you pay for in regards to motorized tools. The Fein turned out to be worth its weight in gold building the Cozy's and has been used several times already in the build of my RV10 emmpenage.
 
The best way to go on cutting plexi

I read in one of the aircraft forums long ago that best, safest way to cut any Plexiglas's on a aircraft was with a Stryker cast saw that the orthopedic surgeons use. I'd been looking for months on Ebay for a used one but they always seemed to sell for way too much. A new one was about $1500.00 bucks and the blades are $25.00 and up.
When the Fein Multimaster came along I figured that would be the ticket since it had the same specs as the Stryker but that too was very expensive. About two weeks ago I found a cheaper version sold by Rockwell and it was about a third the cost of the Fein model. www.sonicrafter.com Also it had identical specs with the Fein Multimaster. Same oscillating frequency.
I received it today and have been experimenting on some plexi tonight.
This thing is beautiful. It cuts the plexi like butter and there's no way you could crack the plexi. It even has a attachment to hook up to your shop vac.
You almost have to see and operate this thing to believe how good it cuts. Just like a cast saw, it will cut the plexi but put it against your finger and it just vibrates. It's like magic. Awesome tool.
 
I was browsing the HF website and noticed what looks to be a Fein Multimaster clone on sale. The fiberglass guys swear by these and then find things to use them on around the house. Any idea if this is a good or back knockoff and did anyone try it on their canopy?
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=65700

THIS TOOL will be on sale for under $40.00 the day after Thanksgiving.

But when you compare this to the ROCKWELL SONICRAFTER for $120.00 you find that the HARBOR FREIGHT tool moves at 11,000 strokes per min. And the ROCKWELL moves at 22,000 srtokes per min. IN THIS CASE, faster is better.
 
<<it will cut the plexi but put it against your finger and it just vibrates. >>

Well, can't say that about a cutoff wheel <g>
 
The blade moves 3 degrees, then changes direction. And it does this 20,000 times a minute. The blade does not have time to stall when cutting plexi. And it does not toss the plexi dust into the air. It just drops down from the cut.
 
the original vs the clones....

I'm just about to buy a Fein Multimaster from my trusty tool dealer here in Toronto (Atlas Machinery, founded 1954) The owner told me there are now two clones on the market (Fein's patent expired) He tried them, and says the Fein is in another league in terms of smoothness and performance (of course the price is in another league too, but I guess you get what you pay for....)
I'm going to use the Fein on house repairs in addition to my RV-8 project, and am looking forward to trying it out.
I don't have any experience using the tool yet, but there's my infinitesimal morsel of second-hand knowledge, anyway.....
Onwards and upwards,
Pete Cheney
Toronto
 
I purchased the Dremel tool from Lowes tonight for $100. I needed it to trim some 3/4" plywood flush with the cabinets in the kitchen. I trimmed a good 2' worth and it took under 20 minutes. It actually cuts through thinner wood like 1/4" very quickly. I am happy with the purchase. Having not done any airplane construction I cannot comment on whether it would be useful for such purposes.
 
Correct blade for Fein

I bought a Fein Multimaster yesterday and so far the results are no better than a die grinder. This thing melts and burns the plastic and takes forever to cut through the canopy. The blades I have tried are the semi circle HS toothed blade and the flat Bi-metal blade. I must be doing something very wrong. I tried the slowest speed,11,000 up to 21,000 and it still burns.Any suggestions?

Update: This is the response I got from tech support at Fein.

" The only blade that could work for you is the HSS blade that comes in the kit, I would say run on low speed, ( it is going to be slow going) you will also have to rock the blade back and forth so that your using a larger area of the blade. There will be some melting, I have not been able to get around this. You could, take some sandpaper and run it on the edge to smooth the melted pieces.Sorry I do not have a better answer."



This doesn't sound that encouraging to me.
 
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