Van's Air Force
Don't miss anything! Register now for full access to the definitive RV support community.
Mounting tires to wheels
- Thread starter s24789
- Start date
Jkkinz
Well Known Member
The mains are not really a problem. Use powder and put a little air in the tube. The fit is not that tight between the tube and the split rim. I put the bolts in and held the rim halves together. I then pressed the side of the tire around to confirm that the tube was not in the split. I held the rim together with a clamp and tightened the bolts.
The nose wheel is another story. The tube is small and rests against the rim when inserted into the tire.that makes it more likely to catch the tube when tightening the bolts. What I did was to use multiple clamps to squeeze the sides of the tire until the inside just meets. That allowed me to stuff the tube into the tire and squeeze the rim together without catching the tube. Once the bolts are snug and holding the rim halves together you can loosen the clamps and the tube will rest against the rim. NO PINCHING!
Hope this helps
The nose wheel is another story. The tube is small and rests against the rim when inserted into the tire.that makes it more likely to catch the tube when tightening the bolts. What I did was to use multiple clamps to squeeze the sides of the tire until the inside just meets. That allowed me to stuff the tube into the tire and squeeze the rim together without catching the tube. Once the bolts are snug and holding the rim halves together you can loosen the clamps and the tube will rest against the rim. NO PINCHING!
Hope this helps
rjcthree
Well Known Member
Talc and air - but in Groves
I really had no issues, but I have Grove main and nose wheels in Magnesium, using Van's tires and tubes. I preinflated the tubes a bit, squeezed them into the tire, a very light wipe of the tire bead with a near clear simple green/water mix, and slow tightening a turn at a time.
I did have a bad schrader valve in one of the main tubes, but for some reason vans shipped me a spare nose wheel tube in my finish kit
Rick 90432
I really had no issues, but I have Grove main and nose wheels in Magnesium, using Van's tires and tubes. I preinflated the tubes a bit, squeezed them into the tire, a very light wipe of the tire bead with a near clear simple green/water mix, and slow tightening a turn at a time.
I did have a bad schrader valve in one of the main tubes, but for some reason vans shipped me a spare nose wheel tube in my finish kit
Rick 90432
Loose valve stem nut
On the inner tube for the mains (RV-6A), I noticed that the nut on the valve stem, on the outside of the tube itself, was loose. It was not even finger tight. It is the nut that clamps down on the valve at the surface of the tube. Unfortunately, I didn't examine the valve nut on the first wheel and now need to disassemble and check it, too.
The fix is probably a reasonably light torque on the nut, and some LockTite of the appropriate 'flavor'. Any suggestion for the torque spec on that one?
In addition, there is a threaded section on the valve stem portion that passes through the wheel half. There is only one nut on that section, which I assumed would go on the outside of the wheel and hold the stem securely. But the stem threads are not anywhere close to the surface of the wheel, either inside or outside. Makes me wonder about the intended purpose of the nut. Any thoughts?
Photos can be seen on www.mykitlog.com/garyc - entry for 10.29.10 ---
RV-6A QB Finishing Kit
O-360-A3A
N234GB (Reserved)
On the inner tube for the mains (RV-6A), I noticed that the nut on the valve stem, on the outside of the tube itself, was loose. It was not even finger tight. It is the nut that clamps down on the valve at the surface of the tube. Unfortunately, I didn't examine the valve nut on the first wheel and now need to disassemble and check it, too.
The fix is probably a reasonably light torque on the nut, and some LockTite of the appropriate 'flavor'. Any suggestion for the torque spec on that one?
In addition, there is a threaded section on the valve stem portion that passes through the wheel half. There is only one nut on that section, which I assumed would go on the outside of the wheel and hold the stem securely. But the stem threads are not anywhere close to the surface of the wheel, either inside or outside. Makes me wonder about the intended purpose of the nut. Any thoughts?
Photos can be seen on www.mykitlog.com/garyc - entry for 10.29.10 ---
RV-6A QB Finishing Kit
O-360-A3A
N234GB (Reserved)
Last edited:
You may be talking about the cap jam nut
If you are talking about what I think you are talking about, it goes on the stem after assembly and when the stem cap is installed firmly you can back this nut up against the bottom of the cap to lock it in place. I do all of this with my fingers even though there are flats on the cap and nut for wrenching. You have to run the nut back down on the stem away from the cap to free the cap for removal.
Bob Axsom
If you are talking about what I think you are talking about, it goes on the stem after assembly and when the stem cap is installed firmly you can back this nut up against the bottom of the cap to lock it in place. I do all of this with my fingers even though there are flats on the cap and nut for wrenching. You have to run the nut back down on the stem away from the cap to free the cap for removal.
Bob Axsom
7A_Driver
Member
I just use tire talk all over the tube and inside of the tire, not too much, just enough to coat the surfaces.
Then put the tube inside the tire, and put a little air in the tube just to inflate it into shape inside the tire.
Then I put the halves of the wheels together, making sure the valve stem is where it needs to be.
If it is too hard to push the two halves together, let some air out of the tube but make sure it is still inflated enough to hold its shape and not get pinched.
Snug the bolts down and inspect to make sure everything looks good, then torque the bolts.
Fill the tire to the pressure you want and install.
While you are doing that, might as well clean, inspect, and re-pack your bearings. I use gasoline or laquer thinner to get them clean. Inspect for any flat spots or other signs of wear. Make sure all the bearings move smoothly. Use an air compressor to blow out all of the gasoline or laquer thinner, but hold the bearings so the air doesn't spin them. Pack them with as much grease as you can.
Clean the wheel really good and inspect the wheel itself for any damage.
Put in the bearings making sure the bearings go back into the exact same side they came out of, do not mix them up. And install your wheel/tire assembly back onto your plane.
Hope this helps!
Then put the tube inside the tire, and put a little air in the tube just to inflate it into shape inside the tire.
Then I put the halves of the wheels together, making sure the valve stem is where it needs to be.
If it is too hard to push the two halves together, let some air out of the tube but make sure it is still inflated enough to hold its shape and not get pinched.
Snug the bolts down and inspect to make sure everything looks good, then torque the bolts.
Fill the tire to the pressure you want and install.
While you are doing that, might as well clean, inspect, and re-pack your bearings. I use gasoline or laquer thinner to get them clean. Inspect for any flat spots or other signs of wear. Make sure all the bearings move smoothly. Use an air compressor to blow out all of the gasoline or laquer thinner, but hold the bearings so the air doesn't spin them. Pack them with as much grease as you can.
Clean the wheel really good and inspect the wheel itself for any damage.
Put in the bearings making sure the bearings go back into the exact same side they came out of, do not mix them up. And install your wheel/tire assembly back onto your plane.
Hope this helps!
I think this explains the stem nut on the outside of the wheel. Good application of a 'locking' mechanism. The rest of the method for assembly described by 7A Driver is consistent with other procedures which I've reviewed. But, not being ungrateful here, neither addresses the other question, though I think I can conclude the nut on the base of the stem should be a "more than finger tight" and have some LockTite.
In the intervening time since my post last night, I researched the Groves wheel options and see that a 'roll pin' is now part of their installation procedure to prevent the 'mushrooms' from rotating. Along with the discussion is this thread about staking fasteners, the procedure seems to have gained acceptance in one form or the other.
My father always told me not to wash bearings, bushings, and such surfaces with gasoline. He claimed it had a detrimental effect on the lubrication of the metallurgy, and was usually better to use other solvents (kerosene, mineral solvents). Probably could be a new thread -- just a thought.
THANKS all - will get 'er done.
Last edited:
How NOT to pinch the tube.
Put some baby powder inside the tire and dust the tube. Insert the tube into the tire and slightly inflate to remove all the wrinkles. Now, take about 2 feet of 20 lbs. monofilament fishing line and thread it through the center of the tire. Install the rim and just start the bolts. Hold both ends of the line and work it around the rim and this will clear the tube from the rim. tighten the rim bolts, remove the fishing line, and inflate tube.
I haven't pinched a tube in over 15 years.
Good Luck!
Jon D.
Put some baby powder inside the tire and dust the tube. Insert the tube into the tire and slightly inflate to remove all the wrinkles. Now, take about 2 feet of 20 lbs. monofilament fishing line and thread it through the center of the tire. Install the rim and just start the bolts. Hold both ends of the line and work it around the rim and this will clear the tube from the rim. tighten the rim bolts, remove the fishing line, and inflate tube.
I haven't pinched a tube in over 15 years.
Good Luck!
Jon D.
turbo
Well Known Member
i use extra long coarse bolts to make the initial bolt up of the wheels. this makes it easy to get the bolts started especially on the nose wheel. to help on the pinched tube problem i check for a pinched tube by clicking the wheel halfs together and listening and feeling for the metal contact as i tighten the wheels up. no metal contact means a pinched tube problem is occurring. play with the tube pressure and keep 'clicking' the wheel halfs. my way is the ^%^ way.
