AAflyer
Well Known Member
I'm spending a lot of time fine-tuning my throttle and mixture cable linkages, now that I've got them run through the firewall. When I was tightening the bolt that runs through the pivot point of the mixture bell crank (VA-165), I discovered that the Vans-installed brass bushing (C-670) doesn't seem to work like most other bushings in bell cranks; i.e. aileron bellcrank. That is, it does not spin freely in the bellcrank, ( it is pressed in) and it does not protrude beyond the dimension of its tubular housing.
I thought that these attributes were what made a bushing useful: it allows you to cinch down the pivot bolt, while allowing smooth, unimpeded freedom of movement of the bell crank.
The supplied hardware uses an AN4-10 bolt and a castle nut, so I am just supposed to screw the nut down to the point where its 'wobble' is minimal, and slap in a cotter pin? This results in a sloppy fit of the bell crank, so…
I'm asking; should I removed the bushing and re-size it so it spins in position, and file down the ends of the bell crank tube so the bushing is slightly longer, or…leave it alone?
Thanks. Here's a picture to remind you what I'm talking about.
I thought that these attributes were what made a bushing useful: it allows you to cinch down the pivot bolt, while allowing smooth, unimpeded freedom of movement of the bell crank.
The supplied hardware uses an AN4-10 bolt and a castle nut, so I am just supposed to screw the nut down to the point where its 'wobble' is minimal, and slap in a cotter pin? This results in a sloppy fit of the bell crank, so…
I'm asking; should I removed the bushing and re-size it so it spins in position, and file down the ends of the bell crank tube so the bushing is slightly longer, or…leave it alone?
Thanks. Here's a picture to remind you what I'm talking about.