What's new
Van's Air Force

Don't miss anything! Register now for full access to the definitive RV support community.

MilSpec CamLocs Install

R

RV_7A

Well Known Member
Hello all, now I know a gillion of you bought these things and I recently installed them. I used the typical .063 mounting flange.
COWLING%20044.jpg


Now since I've drilled and riveted and installed the studs I notice after adjusting them that there is about only 4 threads of the barrel left inside the receptacle. MilSpec sent me #3 Studs like I'm sure everyone else got. Does anyone think this is bad? It sure seems like it would be better if the entire barrel was inside the receptacle.
COWLING%20129.jpg


It seems like it would be better if the studs were shorter and or the inside of the Cowling was built up with a few layers of glass and then installing the shim between the CamLoc flange and the firewall flange like Vans tells you to. The other fix would be to add a spacer on the underside of the CamLoc flange just the opposite location of what MilSpec shows on page 4 their instructions. How did the install of other folks go? Post some pics of your flange and receptacle after the adjustment was made. I'd like to see how others peoples came out.

-Jeff
 
Strange

My cowl material is about 0.70". My support strip is only .040". Mine fit mostly into the barrel. With your thicker support strip, unless your cowl material is very thin, you should get similar results or even go further into the barrel. Are you adjusting so the screw is flush with the retaining ring? Just checking.
 
Another thought

In my experience, clecoes are quite inexact. That goes double for the firewall. Therefore, I did not do the final locating of cowl camlock holes until the firewall was gooped and riveted. Things tend to compress more with rivets than with clecoes and you are on a curve at the top. You can end up with some misaligned holes. Just my 2 cents.
 
My side strips are already riveted. My cowing material is .055 and mounting strip is .063 Using the #3 studs in the kit, as shown above you can see the position of the barrel. If the Cowling and Camloc strip were not sandwiching together completely then my barrel would not be screwed completely through nearly as much as it is. Here's a pic of the screw stud and grommet. My screw studs are flush with the grommet. Maybe its OK like this, the spring lock will still hold it and it wont fall out. I'll probably get shorter studs just for grins.

-Jeff
COWLING%20121.jpg
 
You should talk to Jeremy

Your adjustment seems correct to me - at least it looks the same as what I did. Your cowl material seems a lot thinner, though. I had to shim between the skin and the support strip by about .020". I have a different cowl (SJ). You should have about the same depth, though, because you used a support strip that's .015 thicker than mine. Sympathy!
 
Hey Jeff. I haven't done the camlocs along the top yet (forward top skin won't be riveted on until the very end) and my cowl sides are hinges, but I did rivet in the camlocs along the bottom. From this picture and my weak memory, it seems like the barrel threads are pretty well engaged even after adjusting. I'll double check tonight.

IMG_0904.jpg


Being able to post pictures in this forum is so great.
 
same

Add another data point to your collection... my camlocs look like yours with regards to how much is sticking out beyond the barrel.
 
Finally remembered to take a look at my camlocs last night. The picture above is before I adjusted them apparently. Here's a picture of what they look like now. Almost exactly as you have it Jeff:

IMG_1539.jpg
 
Thanks guys.... Well I'm looking for an alternative. Just doesnt seem right or as good as it could be. But thats just me. :eek:

-Jeff
 
CamLoc Attachment

The standard seems to be 2" .063 material for the attachment cowl using the CamLoc's. My question. Are there any structural issues with using smaller lengths of 063 stock for the attachment as opposed to a single piece?
 
Re the .063 support - just check where you honeycomb starts, we used similar dimensions to Jeff and Peter James in Aus and we have had to go back and shave some off the support as it hits the honeycomb in the cowl.

Probably an optimum would be between 1.5 and 1.75".
 
Not Clear

The width is good to know that 2 might be a little too wide, but what I was trying to ask is about the length. Its about 4' or so for the top cowl. Is it necessary to have one, 4'x2" piece or would 2, 2'x2" pieces be just as good. and if you use 2 pieces, do then need to be joined in any way?
 
Charlie,

I dont think many people use just one peice along the top. Mine is made up of 3 separate parts. This area is a compond curved area and it would be very difficult to work with if it were just one piece. Joining them is optional but not really needed.

-Jeff

COWLING%20134.jpg
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top