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Match-drilling the flaperon leading edge

JimMac

Active Member
I have seen complaints about the difficulty of match drilling through the aluminum flaperon skins into the steel counter-balance tube. The bit tends to travel over the hard steel and elongate the hole in the aluminum nose skin. The following technique seemed to work pretty well for me:
1. Use a spring-loaded center punch to put a small crater in the middle of the hole in the nose skin (into the steel).
2. Then use a small bit (1/16") and drill through the steel. The small bit seems to find the crater and stay in it better than a #30 bit.
3. Then drill through the hole again with a #40 bit.
4. Then drill through the hole again with the final #30 bit.
The trick, I think, is using the very small bit to drill the first pilot hole through the steel tube because it stays in the crater made with the center punch.
 
I have seen complaints about the difficulty of match drilling through the aluminum flaperon skins into the steel counter-balance tube. The bit tends to travel over the hard steel and elongate the hole in the aluminum nose skin. The following technique seemed to work pretty well for me:
1. Use a spring-loaded center punch to put a small crater in the middle of the hole in the nose skin (into the steel).
2. Then use a small bit (1/16") and drill through the steel. The small bit seems to find the crater and stay in it better than a #30 bit.
3. Then drill through the hole again with a #40 bit.
4. Then drill through the hole again with the final #30 bit.
The trick, I think, is using the very small bit to drill the first pilot hole through the steel tube because it stays in the crater made with the center punch.

Sound engineering Jim...well done. In the industry it is called pilot drilling!
 
Stainless steel:
Slow speed
High pressure
Lots of cutting fluid
All to avoid heat build up which can case harden the steel

As opposed to aluminimum
High speed
Low pressure
Boelub
 
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