making steps removable

[david.perl]

I need to make my steps removable as i cant get the fuz out of my workshop with them on. Also the concerns over cracking make me think this may be a wise thing to do.

what size screws should i replace the rivets with? Ive already drilled the holes for rivets so don't want to install the steps with fewer AN3 bolts and wondered what the best size for replacement is?

thanks for any pointers

David

 

[Bob Axsom]

8-32 screws and platenuts on a nut plate

I used 8-32 flathead screws and platenuts on a nut plate. I wrote it up on this website. There may be differences between the RV-6A and the seven but it is pretty straight forward. I have one AN3 torsion bolt under the baggage compartment floor. That requires two access holes and cover plates. I also installed those with #8 screws and platenuts.

Our plane had been painted and we were flying for 4 years before I made the mod for speed.

Bob Axsom

 

[Bob Axsom]

I looked and couldn't find my write up - so more detail

[You have not idea how frustrating it is trying to provide detailed error free instructions and have this link time out tell you you have no authorization to make a change and throw all of your work away - I did it again. I hope this information is understandable at this reduced level of detail.]

Original riveted installation:

Rivets drilled out:

Original hole cut with a round hole saw (in a drill). This is elongated to remove and reinstall the torsion bolt (AN3 I think).

Step removed. The plates are clecoed to the inside of the skin through #30 holes that will be the location of the plate mounting - not the step mounting. If you look closely you will see the extra 4 holes that are the location of the plate mounting separate from the step mounting pattern. The step mounting holes in the skin are used as a drill guide for the #30 step mounting holes in the plates. Clecoe each hole after it is drilled to assure perfect plate alignment:

Platenuts mounted on nutplates. After all the holes are drilled the clecoes and plates are removed and a nonfloating platenut of the required double ear or single ear type is clecoed (bronze) to a screw hole and the platenut is oriented to the desired position. A #40 hole is drilled throught the plate using a platenut mounting hole as a drill guide. That holes is also clecoed (silver) and the other platenut mounting hole is drilled with a #40 drill. Everything is removed and repeated on the next screw hole until the mounting holes for all of the plate nuts are drilled. Go back and enlarge the #30 Screw holes (NOT THE #40 RIVET HOLES) to 3/16". Debur the holes dimple the screw holes in the nutplate and the fuselage side skin and rivet the DIMPLED (manufactured with a dimple at the screw hole) platenuts to the nutplates:

Racing coverplate bare and painted

http://i446.photobucket.com/albums/qq186/raxsom/IMG_0004_zpsfa07032e.jpg[/IMG

I switch back and forth between steps and racing cover plates (0.4 kt gain in speed) but the covers are on now and I don't have a photo of the steps mounted with screws - I hope it is obvious how this works.

Bob Axsom

 

[noelf]

Not sure if this is what you were after, but...

About 10 years ago at the Sun-n-Fun meet, there was an RV-6A there with steps that would retract upwards as the tip-up canopy was closed, and then extend when the canopy was opened.

I'm not sure of the builders name, but it might have been Phillips(?) of the "Possum Works".

 

[david.perl]

Bob, that's exactly what im was looking for - much appreciated David