Hey Guys,
I'm sitting here thinking about lycoming camshafts and how to protect them and have a few thoughts I want to run by the group.
I know that lycoming camshafts work fine if you fly all of the time (don't let them get dry) and my engine builder says to not idle the engine too long which makes sense since the engine oils the cam much better at higher RPM, and because it's common knowledge that cam wear is higher at lower rpms which is why you always run a very high idle when breaking in a cam.
Those things said, some people say that the fix is to use the firewall forward cam mod where they drill holes in the camshaft allowing for forced oiling. I don't see how that would fix the dry start problem, but it would help with running your engine at idle, but then again simply not letting it idle right after engine start isn't that hard to do either.
Now, if I install a pre-oiler then my camshaft would never start dry which I think may work, but the cost is high ($700 for the cam mod, and $500-$1500 for the preoiler depending on if it's certified or not.)
Even if the camshaft is lubed before start, that won't help if I let it sit long enough to rust (which I try not to do, but would be kidding myself if I thought I was going to fly every week without fail) unless I went out to the airport once a week, flipped the pre-oil switch, gave it 2 minutes to lube the engine, then left.
Another option is camshaft coatings. I'm not aware of any certified process for this, but given that the cup cars use this process and turn at 9500rpm, I think this might be a good solution. It would prevent metal on metal contact and also protect the cam against rust. Seems like that combined with at least monthly flying and limited idling would make a cam go for a long time.
Anyone have any thoughts on this? I just want to make sure that my engine goes TBO if at all possible.
Thanks,
schu
I'm sitting here thinking about lycoming camshafts and how to protect them and have a few thoughts I want to run by the group.
I know that lycoming camshafts work fine if you fly all of the time (don't let them get dry) and my engine builder says to not idle the engine too long which makes sense since the engine oils the cam much better at higher RPM, and because it's common knowledge that cam wear is higher at lower rpms which is why you always run a very high idle when breaking in a cam.
Those things said, some people say that the fix is to use the firewall forward cam mod where they drill holes in the camshaft allowing for forced oiling. I don't see how that would fix the dry start problem, but it would help with running your engine at idle, but then again simply not letting it idle right after engine start isn't that hard to do either.
Now, if I install a pre-oiler then my camshaft would never start dry which I think may work, but the cost is high ($700 for the cam mod, and $500-$1500 for the preoiler depending on if it's certified or not.)
Even if the camshaft is lubed before start, that won't help if I let it sit long enough to rust (which I try not to do, but would be kidding myself if I thought I was going to fly every week without fail) unless I went out to the airport once a week, flipped the pre-oil switch, gave it 2 minutes to lube the engine, then left.
Another option is camshaft coatings. I'm not aware of any certified process for this, but given that the cup cars use this process and turn at 9500rpm, I think this might be a good solution. It would prevent metal on metal contact and also protect the cam against rust. Seems like that combined with at least monthly flying and limited idling would make a cam go for a long time.
Anyone have any thoughts on this? I just want to make sure that my engine goes TBO if at all possible.
Thanks,
schu