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Lower spar bolts behind gear weldment on 7A

teaguy

Member
More specifically the nuts that go on those bolts! :confused: I browsed through the RV7(A) forum and cannot find anything about those bolts, surely I cannot be the only person having a time with them. I have to believe that someone has a home rolled solution for getting those nuts on. I don't think even a ground down wrench will fit because of the position of the weldment, any suggestions oh wise ones. :)
Thanks again, what would we do without these forums.
Mark Mercier
RV-7A C-GQRV reserved
Vancouver, BC
 
It's a challenge, but all can be reached using various size wrenches. I did grind a couple of open end wrenches, that now look like tuning forks, to get the job done. It is important that the bolts can turn with minimal resistance since you will need to use the torque wrench on the bolt, and not the nut, on some of the bolts. Use engine oil on the bolts when installing them.

Using tape, or some duct seal, helps holding the nuts to wrenches (or fingers) to assist in getting them threaded on the bolt. We all did it. You will too.

Roberta
 
robertahegy said:
Using tape, or some duct seal, helps holding the nuts to wrenches (or fingers) to assist in getting them threaded on the bolt.

Along these lines, I've heard A&Ps say that they use superglue on the tip of the finger to hold nuts. Actually whenever working in close quarters: I pour out some rubber cement on a piece of paper. Just reach over, stick finger in tacky rubber cement then to nut. Easy cleanup on the hands later.
 
Fuel lube is pretty sticky stuff as well. I've used that a few times on a fingertip.
 
Gear attach bolts

I just did this last week! I used vise-grips. First I used them to put on the washer, then to hold the nut. The grip wasn't very tight, so the nut could move a bit as it touched the bolt, and turned the bolt to get it started. Shine a light between the spars and it really wasn't tough to do.
My 3/8 wrench isn't long enough, so I made an extension from some aluminum channel. I cut notches in the channel to clear the box end of the wrench and allow the main part of the wrench to seat in the channel, and duct-taped it together. I did the tightening from the bolt head and use my calibrated arm for the torque setting :cool:
 
Thank you. I knew it could be done, and you all came through, much appreciated I will probably try all of the above, glue-grind wrench-tape-on the vice grips!
Mark Mercier
RV-7A
Vancouver, BC
 
2 tounge depressers taped together with double sided scotch tape holding the washers and then the nuts to the depressers. Worked for me. A paint stick would be ideal but I didn't have one on-hand. My backup position was to introduce my 2-year old grandson to the pleasures of homebuilding. I'm sure if I held him upside down, he could have reached in with the washers and nuts. I don't know my daughter's position on this concept though.

Now the real tricky step is inserting that 1 washer between the spar and the mount! I super glued that to the mount.

Whatever method you choose, ensure you don't scratch the spars. Tape over any tools you put in there.

Jekyll
 
Forceps

Forceps and tweezers that are constructed to be under tension by themselves work well for washers and nuts, too. Some have a bent tip, too.
h
 
Holding Washers tip

My son gave me this idea on how to insert difficult washers: take a piece of masking tape about 2-3" long. Place the washer on one edge of the tape so that the tape does NOT block the hole. Fold the tape over and do the same thing on the other side.

The end result looks like this:

-----------------+
...tape.............( O ) <-- washer
-----------------+

Now you have a washer with a 'handle'. Once the bolt is inserted, just yank the tape off. I've used this a number of places with great success.
 
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I bought a set of these at Harbor Frieght and they have endless uses. You can hold washers nuts, wires. They are about 16" long and work great.

alligator500.jpg
 
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