Lower Cowl vs. the Nose leg fairing

[Bart]

Hey folks, I decided to finally install my nose leg fairing after being scolded for flying for 3 years with it collecting dust in the back of the hangar. My problem is that the lower slot for the gear leg seems to be too short with the fairing installed. The book says 16 1/4 from the air scoop to the top of the slot but my guess is it should be about 15 inches to get the cowling on without scraping the paint off the leg fairing. What have you guys done to make this work?

Bart

 

[N15JB]

I started out with the lower cowl slot cut per plans. I also fit the cowl with only about 3/16" gap between the aft edge of the spinner and forward face of the cowl. Looks good, but very difficult to get the cowl on/off without scratching the paint. Wound up extending the slot another 4" forward, and it works much better.

Jim Berry
Rv-10

 

[Bart]

Thanks Jim. I'll probably step out the slot inch at a time until it slides on without damaging the paint.

 

[Wayne Gillispie]

Extended the slot as needed and velcroed a fiberglass cover on the top side(inside). You don't want air pressurizing your lower cowl area in a full power, hot summer climb-out. Easily removable and will give if the gear leg flexes enough to hit it.

 

[pa38112]

I put masking tape on the nose gear fairing every time I remove the cowl bottom half. Then I just let it rub.

 

[douglassmt]

Slot with cover

I also extended the slot maybe 4.5-5", then made a cover plate that screws into place to cover the extra slot. I then put clear heavy duty tape on the front of the leg fairing to protect it when the lower cowl drops down and slides forward. Works great, I can remove and replace the entire cowl by myself if need be.

 

[tomhanaway]

I put leading edge tape. aerotect.com , on the top of my gear leg and the top of nose gear fairing. Transparent and very rugged. I have a 3 blade prop which needed the additional clearance.

Easy to take off lower cowl by myself.

 

[blahphish]

I extended the slot like many others.

Extended the slot as needed and velcroed a fiberglass cover on the top side(inside). You don't want air pressurizing your lower cowl area in a full power, hot summer climb-out. Easily removable and will give if the gear leg flexes enough to hit it.

I like this idea due to the ease of removal. You havent seen any issues with heat affecting the velcro, Wayne?

 

[aerhed]

You can chop off the top flap on the leg fairing and get rid of the clamp. It doesn't do much. Then you can just pop off the fairing (4 screws) when you need to drop the bottom.

 

[Bill.Peyton]

I just remove the fairing when removing the lower cowling. I cut it to plans. It takes an extra 10 minutes to R&R, but it sure is easy to remove the cowl with the fairing removed.

 

[Strasnuts]

I made the slot like douglassmt and just throw a rag over the fairing where the cowl will contact when I remove it. When the bottom cowl contacts the fairing it just slidies down the fairing with the rag underneath until it clears the prop. Easily done by myself

 

[douglassmt]

Backwards

I made the slot like douglassmt and just throw a rag over the fairing where the cowl will contact when I remove it. When the bottom cowl contacts the fairing it just slidies down the fairing with the rag underneath until it clears the prop. Easily done by myself

Actually, I made the slot like you did, because I stole the idea from you! Credit where it's due, and all that.

 

[paul330]

I'm going to get my wife to make a fabric cover for the nose fairing. Double whammy - she feels wanted and the fairing gets protected.........

 

[Wayne Gillispie]

I extended the slot like many others.



I like this idea due to the ease of removal. You havent seen any issues with heat affecting the velcro, Wayne?

Brian, No melting or letting go. Temperatures have not exceeded 160F. I purchased a commercial grade velcro from the big home store. Cut two 1/2" X 4" strips to retain piece.