Looking to buy, need help

[ok3wire]

Hi all,
New to the forum, looking to purchase a 6/6a. need help on two i'm considering:
first one has suspect compression, what is time and $$ to overhaul if necessary? says he has "staked the valves" and going to re check them first. anyone heard of this, is it common. engine has 3350TT and has 1110SMOH. plane is in great condition otherwise. need some help/thoughts

second has fuel tanks that were sealed using "sloshing method" he's opened tanks and checked them, said "found that the only loose sealant was on the inside of the four end ribs and of course this was removed. The rest of the sealer was bonded tight I thought it best to leave it well alone. All access plates and fuel sending units were then reinstalled with pro seal and should last for a long time..." i've heard concerns over this method of sealing tanks and am looking for thoughts on this particular plane. again, otherwise plane is in great shape.

thanks in advance for the help, this is a great forum and i'm enjoying it already!
Matt

 

[RV6_flyer]

Hi all,
New to the forum, looking to purchase a 6/6a. need help on two i'm considering:
first one has suspect compression, what is time and $$ to overhaul if necessary? says he has "staked the valves" and going to re check them first. anyone heard of this, is it common. engine has 3350TT and has 1110SMOH. plane is in great condition otherwise. need some help/thoughts

second has fuel tanks that were sealed using "sloshing method" he's opened tanks and checked them, said "found that the only loose sealant was on the inside of the four end ribs and of course this was removed. The rest of the sealer was bonded tight I thought it best to leave it well alone. All access plates and fuel sending units were then reinstalled with pro seal and should last for a long time..." i've heard concerns over this method of sealing tanks and am looking for thoughts on this particular plane. again, otherwise plane is in great shape.

thanks in advance for the help, this is a great forum and i'm enjoying it already!
Matt

During compression check, listen for where the air leaks out. If it is breather, it is past the rings. If you hear it out the exhaust, then it is exhaust valve. If out the intake / carb / FI, then it is intake valve.

Staking valves is done if it is leaking. You hit the valve stem / rocker arm end of valve with a rubber mallet in an attempt to break any carbon away form the seat. It may works 50% of the time IMHO.

I have over 5,500 hours on my O-320 but less than 400 on NEW ECI steel cylinders. IF the airplane you are looking at has Chrome cylinders, WALK AWAY FROM IT. (I do not like Chrome cylinders as they typically require high power settings all the time to keep oil consumption down. Chrome cylinders, Nickel-carbide cylinders will always use more oil than steel or nitrated cylinders.

Van recommends that any tank with SLOSH be inspected every (I forget) 25 or 50 hours. Van's would like all tanks with SLOSH removed from flying aircraft.

My tanks have had slosh for over 15-years flying and have accumulated over 2,600 flying hours. I inspect for separation by looking in the filler every time I put fuel in the airplane. I have a Gascolator screen and a carb on the engine.

I have had no problems with my sloshed tanks yet. The problem you may have is getting an A&P to sign off your once a year Condition Inspection with slosh in the tanks and a Service Bulletin out by the designer saying to remove slosh tanks from flying aircraft.

Both items you are concerned about lower the price you should pay for the airplane.

Make sure that the compression check is being done with a differential compression checker that has the proper size orifice. 0.060 is the proper size for the Lycoming 320 and 360. A number of years ago, the FAA revised their AC saying that the size of the bore and not the displacement was what should determine the size of orifice is used. If an older differential compression checker with a 0.030 orifice is being used, compression will read less (worse) than it will with the proper 0.060 size.

 

[rvbuilder2002]

Repairing engine problems can be expensive.
Improperly evaluating the condition of an RV airframe and possible issues it has (slosh in tanks) can get expensive also (or worse).


The standard advice you will get from anyone here with RV experience (and from Van's also) is have an independent person who is experienced with engines, and the RV model you are looking at, look the airplane over very well.
Considering the amount of money you will spend purchasing the airplane, the price of a good inspection is worth every penny.

 

[Mike S]

Welcome to VAF!!

Hi all, New to the forum, looking to purchase a 6/6a. Matt

Matt, welcome aboard the good ship VAF!!

Good to have you here

I would suggest you get hold of Rosie, he is not too far from you, at Rosemond L00. He is someone who can assist with your search.

It is a lot cheaper to redo tanks than an engine. You can even buy a completed set of tanks from a guy up in the Redding area, well know in the RV world for his work.

Good luck.

 

[AX-O]

About time you get on this forum.

 

[ok3wire]

Many thanks to all who have responded, appreciate the feedback Not ready to make anyone an offer yet, trying to get smart on potential issues to watch out for. appreciate any and all advice/recommendations!

Matt