Shutter Speeds
akarmy said:
So Doug,
Tell us a little bit about the "Image Stabilized" zoom you have.
I have a Nikon D70 with a non stabilized 80-200 and have not yet got a good picture from the air beyond about 120mm. Seems that there is always some shake when cruizing along.
Also, what shutterspeeds do you tend to use when doing air to air work?
I am not Doug but I will jump in here. Image stabilization is nice. However it is not a pancea. It can only do so much. On average "IS" will give you 1 to 2 stops of additional shutter speed and still provide sharp pictures. You know that the faster the shutter speed the less subject movement and camera shake you get in your images. With "IS" what would take a shutter speed of 1/250 to make sharp could be had with a shutter speed of 1/125 or maybe even 1/60 of a second. The downside to "IS" is that you have to pay for it. We are talking $1500+ for these lenses. Yes I know most RV builders are swimming in cash but for some of us that is still a lot of money!
Nikon's "IS" equivalent is found in their "VR" lenses. They are expensive as well. Canon's "IS" is a little better than Nikon's "VR" but if you shoot a Nikon that is a mute point.
A rule of thumb for shooting hand-held sharp images with a non "IS" telephoto is to use a minimum shutter speed of 1 over the length of the lens. For example if you are shooting at 200mm you should use 1/200 sec shutter speed or faster, 50mm 1/50 sec or faster, 300mm 1/300 or faster, etc. Again "IS" or "VR" will give you about 1 to 2 stops of additional leaway in your shutter speed and still maintain sharpness. Keep in mind that faster shutter speeds not only stop subject motion and camera shake but also propellers. if you want that blurred prop look in your images you will have to shoot at slower shutter speeds. "IS" definitely helps but shooting at slower shutter speeds still requires practice and a steady hand to get a sharp image. If you are on the ground and want to use a slower shutter speed, try panning the camera along the flight path of the airplane. With practice you will be able to get a sharp airplane with a blurred prop and a blurred background. This creates a nice image which implies a lot of speed and motion.
As you look at buying cameras, get what you need but don't overdo it. A camera bag with a DSLR, a couple of big lenses, a strobe, maybe a tripod, will use up a lot of that 100 lb baggage limit in a 2 seat RV. This may be fine if you are on a mission to get that one perfect image, but if you are headed out on an extended xcountry that weight might be better used elsewhere. On the other hand, that little pocket-sized camera takes up very little space and adds very little weight to the flight. It is easy to use and will save you a bundle as well.
The cameras are getting really really good and if you stick with the name brands you really can't go wrong. I am familiar with the Nikon and Canon cameras but that doesn't mean the other brands are not just as nice. I happen to like the software that Canon and Nikon provides for processing raw files. In a perfect world this is probably not a big deal but good software will pull detail out of a dark photo or save one that is 2 stops under exposed or about 1/2 stop overexposed.
My recommendation is that if you want maximum capability and flexibility and if you don't mind spending a few grand then the consumer line of Canon and Nikon DSLR cameras are the way to go. If you want to keep it under a grand and have ease of use and great images, go with one of the Canon or Nikon consumer grade cameras. Yes there are other brands out there that are fine, but it's a lot like buying an airplane kit. You can't go wrong with an RV and you can't go wrong with Canon or Nikon.
Have fun.