What's new
Van's Air Force

Don't miss anything! Register now for full access to the definitive RV support community.

Looking at hand squeezers

Bushwhacker

Active Member
Looking to purchase a good quality hand squeezer with 3" yoke as suggested by RV. Am looking at a "Texas Hand Squeeze" for $120. Anyone have a squeezer with a 3" yoke that is gathering dust in their garage? Would rather buy a good used tool than a new cheap import.
 
If you are setting 3/32 I suggest you go for the US made TATCO make - its light and easy to work with

http://www.tatco.com/viewcategory.php?groupid=21

If you also need to set 1/8 - then go for the "Big" squeezer made by Cleveland tools

it is bulkier and not so easy to work with one hand .. but it will set 1/8 rivets with no problems (and also do 3/32)
 
I have a Tatco and it is fine for 1/8" rivets too, but it takes a hefty two-handed squeeze.
 
I have a Tatco. At the time of purchase, the Cleveland Main squeeze had just been introduced. It certainly does AD4 size rivets very easily and I came close to buying it. In order to do that, the handle travel has to be increased to get the mechanical advantage and that is a problem in some areas. It is not needed for AD3s which are the vast majority of rivets on an RV.

My recommendation is Tatco with as many different jaws as you can afford and include the quick change pins.

I have the "standard" jaw (1.5" deep I think), a DEEP one (3.5"?), a No Hole, and a longeron (tall, not deep).

As already stated in previous posts, it will squeeze AD4s but it takes a real grip.
About halfway through the build, I bought a couple of big (in diameter and length) hardware bolts that fit snug in the handles as "extensions". It makes AD4s much easier but you can put a heck of a load on the jaws so be careful. At that point it has the mech advantage of the Main Squeeze and also a similar (but different) problem in regards to space requirements for the handles.

Here's an example of innovation that is in many builders future (not this one exactly). I overlooked a pair of rivets and found then late in the build. There was no space for a gun/buck and the squeezer would not reach. And I was still being stubborn about wanting a solid rivet instead of copping out and using a pop rivet.
The parallel jaw clamp was a damaged piece of hardware in my junk pile. This pic shows the longeron yoke

3532378574c5f5690edf9f.jpg
 
Last edited:
+1

I use Main Squeeze over pneumatic 100% of the time. I like the control I have with it.

But it does require you have the part mounted in a vise, or otherwise stabilized (on the plane). With a powered squeezer, you can hold the part in one hand, and hold the squeezer in your other hand. You can then rotate the part around in your one hand, as you quickly go from rivet to rivet (e.g. -a bracket). Not so for hand held riveters, since you will need to put the squeezer down, and reposition the part in the vise, or reposition your body around the table (for example).

Someone has yet to make a one-handed hand-held squeezer. As far as control goes, once you dial in a powered squeezer for a given rivet size/material (via a test, or by experience), it is very repeatable.

The hydraulic unit CAT is now selling (licensed from me) or my units are slightly slower and VERY controllable compared to pneumatic only units.

Nonetheless...the Main Squeeze is a great unit, and if you are getting what you need done with it, then that is all that really matters.
 
Not so for hand held riveters

Well, maybe for some, but it is really not an issue to do one handed squeezing of AD3's with the Tatco.

Cleco'ed part in left hand with rivet, Tatco in right. Squeeze. Done. No blood. Fingers still same shape as before. :)
 
Last edited:
Well, maybe for some, but it is really not an issue to do one handed squeezing of AD3's with the Tatco.

Cleco'ed part in left hand with rivet, Tatco in right. Squeeze. Done. No blood. Fingers still same shape as before. :)

Maybe so for AD3s. But jump up to -4s and it is definitely a two handed operation.
 
Maybe so for AD3s. But jump up to -4s and it is definitely a two handed operation.

Yes of course but please tell me of parts that are small enough to hold in your hand to squeeze that need AD4s.

Look. This thread was about manual hand squeezers. Chill with the advertisement.
 
Last edited:
Yes of course but please tell me of parts that are small enough to hold in your hand to squeeze that need AD4s.

Look. This thread was about manual hand squeezers. Chill with the advertisement.

Bill,

Every so often when I post on this site, I run someone who seems to want to pick a fight. Pleased to meet you Bill.

Nowhere did I say, "Hey everyone, buy my stuff." I didnt even mention I made squeezers. You just noticed my website listed under my username, and took that as an advertisment. The fact is, while I have sold dozens of my units to satisfied builders, in different countries, I am pretty busy with commercial units. So, I'm not posting to advertise. I thought I was posting to help educate, you know, like you do at NC State.

In this thread, I was initially responding to bushwacker that I had a main squeeze I'd sell, which is now sold. I entered the discussion when KCBerner mentioned the control aspect he said he had with a hand-held unit versus a PNEUMATIC (powered) unit. Forgive me for being so rude as to comment on a the virtues of a PNEUMATIC (powered) unit, taking it far from the narrow discussion you were moderating. I didnt know someone like you would bust a vein over it. But I would not be as rude as to tell a member in our homebuilding community to "chill". I learned a long time ago that tends to infuriate people.

Anyway, if that Tatco squeezer is working for you, keep on using it. Just keep both hands on it when squeezing -4s.
 
Bill,

Every so often when I post on this site, I run someone who seems to want to pick a fight. Pleased to meet you Bill.

Nowhere did I say, "Hey everyone, buy my stuff." I didnt even mention I made squeezers.


With a powered squeezer, you can hold the part in one hand <Snip>.

Someone has yet to make a one-handed hand-held squeezer. As far as control goes, once you dial in a powered squeezer for a given rivet size/material (via a test, or by experience), it is very repeatable.

The hydraulic unit CAT is now selling (licensed from me) or my units are slightly slower and VERY controllable compared to pneumatic only units.
.

Pleased to meet you too. This is not personal. It is about actions.

The above can be considered an argument for powered squeezers. You are a manufacturer of such and therefore have a conflict of interest by the nature of your position.

Use of a hand squeezer in one hand is quite easy for AD3s if one has any semblance of dexterity.

I am sorry the chill comment was too aggressive but I think you should know it was the mild version compared to the one I erased.

I am not a moderator on VAF so I have the same risk of being whacked as anybody else.
 
Your actions too Bill

Pleased to meet you too. This is not personal. It is about actions.

I am not a moderator on VAF so I have the same risk of being whacked as anybody else.


Bill,

So true about actions, your actions included. When you so impolitely tell me to "chill", you made it personal, against the rules stated on this forum. If you find any post objectionable by anyone, in the future contact the modertor. Dont go off acting like a moderator yourself. I too had to do some editing of my response to you.

As far as conflict of interest goes, I'm not hiding what I do, nor am I spouting on and on about it (advertising as you say). I dont profess to know the latest in glass panel technology and dont post my misunderstandings on those related threads. What I do know a couple things about is primary aircaft structure, which often involves riveting. This all started in the 80's, designing strucure for Atlas rockets.

In my prior three trips since last November to Boeing, to visit their 767 assembly line, I cant say I saw too many people using hand held squeezers. I know, Boeing is trying to build airplanes quickly, but so are some builders. I hand dimpled my skins for my 7, and had I to do again, would have SOME form of a giant C-frame (DRDT-2, oops sorry for advertising for another company). Since it would have been so much faster and more consistent using SOME form of a C-frame. There is another thread in the tools section discussing my C-frame, and I'm not going to edit my username dependent on which thread I visit.

As for your prior comment, about not too many brackets you can hold in your hand that need -4 rivets; did you build the QB kit? If so, I can excuse the comment, since you didnt do most of the riveting work then. There are more than a few brackets you can hold in your hand that need AD4 1/8" 2117 aluminum alloy rivets (RV-7 cited below).

Vertical stab doubler- VS-808PP

Vertical stab hinge brackets - VS-410PP, VS-411PP, VS-412PP

Elevator spar reinforcement plates - E-610PP, E-611PP

These are just from 2 drawings of the first drawings in the construction. I could list out more parts...
 
I like the Tatco for hand squeezing. I have it setup with a 3" yoke. Its easy to operate one handed on AD3 rivets. For the larger rivets at least for me they are difficult. I also have a Main Squeeze and I use it for the AD4 rivets. The Main Squeeze requires more handle movement but provides more leverage so larger rivets are easier to squeeze. But because the handles move more I can't start the rivet one handed. I have to rest one handle on my chest to get the rivet started. The Main Squeeze is a nice tool, but since I primarily work alone it isn't the best for me. If I had to buy just one I would but the Tatco and a pneumatic squeezer.

I normally do most of my hand squeezing with the Tatco. I keep my Main Squeeze setup with the no set yoke so I don't have to switch yokes when I run across a tight fit rivet.
 
I'm surprised no one mentioned the Avery Squeezer. I built my entire plane with one and a 3x rivet gun.

The only yokes you need are the 4" no-hole, longeron yoke, and MAYBE a 4" standard yoke.

When I build again, the only thing I would do differently is to buy a 2x rivet gun to supplement my 3x. I helped a friend with his RV and used his 2x for the skin to rib and skin to bulkhead rivets and it is perfect but much too light when riveting through three pieces of aluminum or to AA.

PS. when ordering your squeezer, make sure to order either a right or left hand one!
 
Last edited:
Back
Top