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leaking tank.... Noooooo!

Trevor778

Well Known Member
Hi all, well I've finally come to the point where I need to pressure test my tanks before final assembly onto the wing. The first, no issues. the second, not so much. I have a tiny leak, it seems I took the precautions in the manual a little too literally and when I riveted on the rear baffle. I went a little too light between 2 rivets on the bottom of the tank. You know where they say to not use too much pro seal so that the water can drain to the low point... So what do you think I should do? The rivets in question are on the bottom of the tank, rear baffle, outboard last 2 rivets in the same bay as the filler cap. Part of me wants to drill out the last couple of rivets on the bottom outboard flange of the rear baffle, inject in some pro seal and close again using oops rivets? Maybe figure out a way to get at the problem area through the filler cap? Or the last resort is cut open a small hole in the rear baffle and re apply pro seal and seal up the access hole.

What does everyone think?

thanks in advance.

Trevor
 
Through the filler cap

Having just fought (and won) with a small weeping leak on a completed aircraft, I feel your pain.
FWIW - I'd try to inject a bead of proseal through the filler in the affected spot to create a filet with another bit spread on the outside of the baffle.
Perhaps a veterinary size syringe fitted with a tube long enough to reach. Possibly thin the proseal a bit to make it flow easier. The solvent used for thinning escapes me at the moment but it's in the forum in other tank repair/proseal threads.
Anything to keep from drilling out the baffle and possible distortion when you spread it. Your suggestion may work but if there's already some pro seal in between the baffle flange and outer skin, you may have a difficult time spreading it apart. The goo of black death is pretty tenacious.
 
I would bite the bullet and cut out an access hole in the back of that bay. It seems drastic but with the tank off of the wing cutting the hole is a piece of cake. You can then reach in there and repair it correctly.
Your new access hole can be covered with a simple plate, sealed, and pop riveted in place with closed end pop rivets. Some take the time to put in nut plates and screws but there should never be any other reason to get into that side of the tank once repaired.
I bet you can get the repair completed in less time than you spent worrying about it. Way less.
 
I would bite the bullet and cut out an access hole in the back of that bay. It seems drastic but with the tank off of the wing cutting the hole is a piece of cake. You can then reach in there and repair it correctly.
Your new access hole can be covered with a simple plate, sealed, and pop riveted in place with closed end pop rivets. Some take the time to put in nut plates and screws but there should never be any other reason to get into that side of the tank once repaired.
I bet you can get the repair completed in less time than you spent worrying about it. Way less.

Been there, done that, John is right, very easy.
 
Good catch Mike. I searched for that thread but gave up....

Pretty easy as I remembered it was Vlad who posted it. I just looked under his login for threads he had started, much easier than the regular "Search" function.
 
Thanks to all who replyed. So after a bit of deliberation (beers) last night I came back today and was able to fashion an extension to a syringe that gave me access to the problem area through the filler cap. I cut the pro seal with a bit of laquer thinner as per a structures tech that I know so that it would flow a little better and layed in a real good bead all the way to the next rib. Leaving enough room for the water drain at the bottom of the tank of course. Ill leave it for the weekend and update as required. Thanks again.

till next time.

Trev
 
Here's a recent post on how I handled a similar leak. The air leak is fixed, but it will be several years until I know how it stands up to fuel...
 
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