Latch pins

[Ron B.]

I'm a little conserned about tapping the latch pins. I'm thinking about purchasing the Alum. door guides and when I tapped the 5/16 X 24 threads the threads seemed loose, as in the I.D. of the tubing was oversized for the tap. Do the door guides have 5/16" X 24 threads? I'm concerned that even with thread locker they may fall off, if my assumption is correct.
Ron

 

[Mike S]

That is just for marking the location to drill the hole in the block.

The tubing is the latch pin, nothing is screwed into it when you are done.

At least, that is how my doors were done, with the door problems in the past, things may have changed???

Double check the instructions, read all the way through the door setup portion.

By the way, when setting the gear rack to the drive wheel, be sure you have the max travel ----IE, both racks come up against the stop rivets.

 

[Ron B.]

I was refering to what I think is supplied with the Alum. door guides. On the Cleveland site they show two pins that appear to be threaded on one end and rounded on the other. I'd assume they were extentions of some sort.

 

[Mike S]

I was refering to what I think is supplied with the Alum. door guides. On the Cleveland site they show two pins that appear to be threaded on one end and rounded on the other. I'd assume they were extensions of some sort.

OK, I have seen these, no idea how they mount.

I wonder if they have an oversized thread so as to fit correctly???

Check with the vendor, sounds like.

 

[Ivan Kristensen]

Door latch pins!

Ron,
When using the after market latch pin door guides they come with bullet shaped stainless pins and magnets which requires that you cut off the beveled portion of the aluminum tube off and run a 5/16-24 tap into the end as far as it will go allowing the stainless tips to be threaded and glued in place. Use a JB Weld epoxy or the equivalent to glue these tips in place.

You are quite correct in saying that this is a loose fit as the tap will just barely scratch the inside surface of the tube, you do not want to cut these threads any deeper as that would reduce the strength of the latching mechanism right where you need it the most, that is why you must epoxy the tips in place.

I used the flush door handles and door guides and pins from Iflyrv10.com http://www.iflyrv10.com/ These products are of high quality and worked very well.

Here is a link to my installation of these products http://204.101.134.237/HTML web site/RV_10_website/Cabin_doors/Cabin_doors.html

 

[Rick S.]

I didn't have a loose fit, but I wouldn't call it a tight fit either. My threads inside the tube are deeper than scratches. I did have to hold the tubing in the vise to tap the threads. Wait until the very end to permantly glue them in because you need to use the pointed bolt to mark the drilling point for the tube and pins. BTW, they work GREAT!! The door is very sound when you close the latch. I didn't see any problems with the aft pin not trying to engage or staying outside the door cavity where some have had problems before.

 

[avee8tor13]

Aftermarket latch pin and block

Ron,

I went with the aftermarket block and tapered pin design. I mounted the aluminum blocks up against the aluminum frame. I used a dremmel and cut/ground out the cabin fiberglass where I mounted the blocks. The key here, in my opinion, is to make sure you have plenty of latch pin going through the block and past the aluminum framework. I will locktite the tapered pins in. Seem to be tight. You can always drill a hole, press in a spring pin then grind down smooth. The purpose of the taper pin is to allow easier and quicker alignment. The original Van design, to me, seems to be quickly thought out and should of used a tapered design. I guess the beauty of the experimental category, you can do whatever you want as long as it is safe.

Please look at my link and see if this helps you.

http://avee8tor.smugmug.com/gallery/2336280_Yo3ae#415280022_JLKku

Regards,

Tim