Hi Rob,
Somewhere off the surface, a little downstream, the flow will close and make a 'Kutta condition'. Square-cornered bases are best for this, because the separation points are fixed. The small base area actually can do some interesting, sometimes beneficial things.
[Ah, yes. I had forgotten about the flat trailing edge. So I might be better off flatening the backside of the TE if I can't crease it or reduce the radius enough? I wonder if this radius is flat enough to be effectively the same thing.]
A radiused trailing edge is less desirable, since the separation point(s) are vaguely defined, and can move around. In bad cases, it can cause a bi-stable, slightly deflected control surface that will sit just slightly to one side or the other of neutral. This is annoying. I think the bulk of experience with RV's is that the surfaces work fine as long as the trailing edge is something like 3/16" ( 3/32" radius) or less. Others might say 1/8" radius is OK.
The RV-7,9,10 went to a nice sharp TE with a wedge-shaped filler and double-flush rivets. I'm not familiar with the -12 specifically, but if it is like all the other models, the above guide should be good enough.
[The 12 rudder does not have wedge filler to help close the TE. Can't speak to the wings. Not that far yet.]
I found the limit on bending the skins was the point where the stiffeners hit the opposite surface - I wish I had made the angled trim line on the stiffeners a shallower slope so I could bend the skins just a bit farther before the stiffeners hit.