Is there a larger landing light lens from other models that may fit?

[Taltruda]

I’m getting ready to install the new FlyLED 7 star lights on my -4 and my buddies -9. I believe the newer wings on the -14 have larger openings and larger lenses. How about the -4, -6,-7,-8? Is there an updated lens with a larger cutout that I could use to “let more light out”? I feel that the smallish light opening chokes some of the light coming out. Same question about the -9.. I realize the -14 uses the same airfoil as the -10, but could it be close enough to conform to the -4 or -9 airfoil shape? Perhaps a little heat to reform it?

 

[Richard@Langair]

If you move the light closer to the front you may get a little benefit. Part of the idea with the Duckworks design was to limit the amount of spillover that reaches the pilot's peripheral vision. A nice focused light beam will give up very little in the amount of size of a normal Duckworks Lens.

 

[FlyDave]

I have a 6A and bought a 7 stars but haven't installed it yet.
I'll have to cut the Duckworth frame to fit the 7 stars into it. I'll see how it projects and how much the wing cutout blocks. But I was thinking that aiming it down a little with a shim/washer. That might might help to get more light out of the wing.
Are you installing a second wire and switch that would let you illuminate only the center light for taxi?

 

[rvbuilder2002]

I’m getting ready to install the new FlyLED 7 star lights on my -4 and my buddies -9. I believe the newer wings on the -14 have larger openings and larger lenses. How about the -4, -6,-7,-8? Is there an updated lens with a larger cutout that I could use to “let more light out”? I feel that the smallish light opening chokes some of the light coming out. Same question about the -9.. I realize the -14 uses the same airfoil as the -10, but could it be close enough to conform to the -4 or -9 airfoil shape? Perhaps a little heat to reform it?

Post a photo of what you have.
A lot of people customize landing light installations so there is know way to answer your question without knowing what you have.

 

[Taltruda]

Post a photo of what you have.
A lot of people customize landing light installations so there is know way to answer your question without knowing what you have.

I’ve got what I believe is the “Standard” cutout.. the -9 I’m working on is similar, but a different airfoil shape of course. These lights served me good, but when FlyLED has a light called “Taildragger MAX”, I gotta have em!

 

[Taltruda]

I have a 6A and bought a 7 stars but haven't installed it yet.
I'll have to cut the Duckworth frame to fit the 7 stars into it. I'll see how it projects and how much the wing cutout blocks. But I was thinking that aiming it down a little with a shim/washer. That might might help to get more light out of the wing.
Are you installing a second wire and switch that would let you illuminate only the center light for taxi?

On the -9, probably not.. on my -4, I already have the 4 light combo with one taxi light, so yes.

 

[rvbuilder2002]

I’ve got what I believe is the “Standard” cutout.. the -9 I’m working on is similar, but a different airfoil shape of course. These lights served me good, but when FlyLED has a light called “Taildragger MAX”, I gotta have em!

The raw lens for that opening gets trimmed down quite a bit so making the opening larger would be possible.

 

[rockyfatcat]

Term​	Diameter in inch​	Diameter in millimeter​
PAR46	5.75	145
PAR38	4.75	120
PAR36	4.5	115
PAR30	3.75	95
PAR20	2.5	65
PAR16	2	50

You must realize what these affixed numbers mean? PAR20: 20 denotes, the exact measurement from brim to brim of LED lights, that is to say, 20/8 inch in diameter, approximately 64mm; PAR30 is standing for 30 denotes, 30/8 inch in length near to 95mm, PAR38. 38 denotes, 38/8 inch in length, is equal to 120mm.

Experimental you have options, whether you can squeeze it in, is another question entirely.

 

[PaulvS]

I’m getting ready to install the new FlyLED 7 star lights on my -4 and my buddies -9. I believe the newer wings on the -14 have larger openings and larger lenses. How about the -4, -6,-7,-8? Is there an updated lens with a larger cutout that I could use to “let more light out”? I feel that the smallish light opening chokes some of the light coming out. Same question about the -9.. I realize the -14 uses the same airfoil as the -10, but could it be close enough to conform to the -4 or -9 airfoil shape? Perhaps a little heat to reform it?

It is quite easy to make a lense from scratch for the leading edge cutouts. I used some 1/16" plexi sheet and heated it up with an electric bar heater until it was pliable and then draped it over the leading edge of the wing and held it down until it was cool. I protected the wing with a microfibre cloth. This process probably sounds a bit redneck but it worked and plexi is cheap so it doesn't hurt to make a few practice pieces.

 

[vic syracuse]

I was able to fit the seven stars light from Flyleds into the original Duckworks opening in my 10 by disconnecting the duckworks mount and moving it out of the way, then reconnecting it once the light was pushed into the opening.

Vic

 

[JonJay]

I looked at the Aeroleds web site and could not find any photometrics, just raw lumen output.
The opening only matters if the beam spread isn’t tight enough, or if it physically won’t fit. Most LED flood/spot lights are very tight beam spreads
Since it is an array, it is possible each LED has a different beam spread. The photometric data would tell you what you need to know if they have it.

 

[BenNabors]

On the -9, probably not.. on my -4, I already have the 4 light combo with one taxi light, so yes.

The RV9 wing is surprisingly skinny after being accustomed to a RV-7 wing

 

[Roadjunkie1]

Too bad this wingtip installation isn't still available. Worked very well with the FlyLED Quad setup. Still have a 50w halogen in the right tip and it looks like a tea candle out there....

 

[Ralph Inkster]

It is quite easy to make a lense from scratch for the leading edge cutouts. I used some 1/16" plexi sheet and heated it up with an electric bar heater until it was pliable and then draped it over the leading edge of the wing and held it down until it was cool. I protected the wing with a microfibre cloth. This process probably sounds a bit redneck but it worked and plexi is cheap so it doesn't hurt to make a few practice pieces.

I’ve adapted many types of lamps into the leading edges using Duckworks type brackets & oversize lenses. As PaulvS describes, it’s easy to fabricate lenses to fit.

In my case, I create an appropriate leading edge plug to form the lens over. The shape is to accommodate the inner curvature of the leading edge, so is about 1/8” undersized in leading edge shape. 2 plywood ribs & a bit of thin gauge sheet metal makes the plug. 1/8” plexi from the hardware store and my wife’s oven set at 325deg F does the job.
Learn a new skill! Be experimental!