What's new
Van's Air Force

Don't miss anything! Register now for full access to the definitive RV support community.

Is a 4" Yoke needed down the fuselage road?

WingedFrog

Well Known Member
I just gave-up on the setting of two AN470 D4-10 located at each end of the baggage floor (those who have been through page 21-02 know what I mean). My 3" Yoke from the Avery hand squeezer is about 1/2" short to do the job. The investment in a 4" yoke is about $150 so I am asking those who have been through the complete build project: is this the only instance where the 3" yoke comes short or is it just the first that will be followed by more? If this is the only case I will try to borrow a 4" yoke to a fellow local EAAer, if not I will bite the bullet.
 
I just gave-up on the setting of two AN470 D4-10 located at each end of the baggage floor (those who have been through page 21-02 know what I mean). My 3" Yoke from the Avery hand squeezer is about 1/2" short to do the job. The investment in a 4" yoke is about $150 so I am asking those who have been through the complete build project: is this the only instance where the 3" yoke comes short or is it just the first that will be followed by more? If this is the only case I will try to borrow a 4" yoke to a fellow local EAAer, if not I will bite the bullet.

Save your money and get a friend from EAA to drive the rivets with a rivet gun.

Best regards,
Vern
 
Jean-Pierre, I squeezed all the rivets with the 3" yoke, first by hand and later (after the tailcone rear bulkhead) pneumatic. It might be that you can't use the cupped dies with those (I remember something fishy about some long AD4 rivets there) but Van's had you previously cleared to use flat dies on the rivets on the flange of the baggage floors and so I assumed this to be ok. I'm somewhere in section 23, 26 and 28 and still just have the 3" yoke, so I know there must have been a way to squeeze them.
 
4" yoke not needed

I built my whole RV-12 without a 4" yoke. I do not remember those two AN470 D4-10 rivets being a problem, but can not remember how I did it. Can you reach around the flanges from the outside? My 4 rivets seem to have flatter heads than the others. Perhaps I used a longer die in the squeezer that was not cupped.
Notice that step 5 says to put the factory heads on bulkhead. That is to provide more room for the landing gear leg that goes in there.
Joe
 
I think I tried everything, including using flat sets. I could get a grasp with the flat set but the rivet started bending on the shop side, it's when I gave-up. Anyway your answers show that there is little more places where I would need the 4" yoke, I will therefore take the borrowing path.
Thanks
 
Hm, if the shop side is bending, this indicates that the rivet is too long for the job. Are you sure you put the rivet in the right hole and that you attached everything to the structure that is supposed to get riveted on? Soudns stupid but that's the only thing I could think of. Also, I can't see how a 4" yoke would avoid this?!
 
Hm, if the shop side is bending, this indicates that the rivet is too long for the job. Are you sure you put the rivet in the right hole and that you attached everything to the structure that is supposed to get riveted on? Soudns stupid but that's the only thing I could think of. Also, I can't see how a 4" yoke would avoid this?!

it's bent because I could not align the set correctly perpendicular to the rivet stem. It may be possible to do it right with the 3" yoke with convoluted positioning but I prefer not take a chance and borrow a 4" set that will make it easier. I love challenges, just up to a certain point... :D
 
Back
Top