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Intersection fairings

C

carl nank

Well Known Member
I read the forums and could not find an answer to this question.

I am ready to make, yes make, my main gear intersection fairings. It appears most folks buy them, but, I am a glutton for punishment. My questions are thus:

The book calls for 9 oz fiber glass. It does not mention what weave or other details.

I would appreciate if someone who has "rolled their own" can help me with more details.

Thanks,
 
Any weave will do...

Regular fiberglass cloth is all you need. I get all my stuff at a local boating store - F/G cloth (mostly 6 oz.) and West Systems epoxy, and lightweight filler (microballoons). Any weave will do for fairings.
 
Bid cloth

Use Bi-directional or BID cloth, as it is called for the fairings. It's weave conforms well to the sharp turns you will need to make for these parts. Note that even if you buy your fairings, you will still need to work them over to get a good fit. The truth is, it aint that much more trouble to roll yer own!!

Repeat after me...Fiberglass is fun...fiberglass is fun....

Regards,
Chris
 
<<The book calls for 9 oz fiber glass. It does not mention what weave or other details.>>

Smart question.

For any shape with significant compound curves, use a "crowfoot" or "satin" weave fabric. Standard crowfoot is 4-harness, meaning one under/three over. It drapes moderately well. Popular satin weaves are 5 harness and 8 harness, and have even more drape. The "crowfoot" term tends to get used for all of the choices, which is not entirely accurate; look for the harness number.

Did a quick search for a picture worth 1000 words:

http://www.cstsales.com/weave_styles.html

My favorite all-around choice is 8.9 oz 8-harness satin, available anywhere, including Spruce and Wicks. Builds thickness fast at about .010" per ply, and it will drape over a bowling ball without wrinkle.
 
Just got around to doing mine last weekend . I used bi-directional cloth from ACS about 3 layers . I also used clay( clear clay or clean clay ) don't remember the exact name for it . to form the inside radius . Used a soup can lid the form the clay top and bottom . Use some sort of tape over all parts that you don't want glass to stick to and under the clay as well, it will make it easy to get all the clay removed from the tight places . Don't use the kid's modeling clay ( per Sam James ) it has more oil in it . I found the process to be easy and messy, took me about 3 hours start to finish for the layup . Now the sanding and painting begins .
 
done't forget the peel ply

carguy614 said:
Use Bi-directional or BID cloth, as it is called for the fairings. It's weave conforms well to the sharp turns you will need to make for these parts. Note that even if you buy your fairings, you will still need to work them over to get a good fit. The truth is, it aint that much more trouble to roll yer own!!

Repeat after me...Fiberglass is fun...fiberglass is fun....

Regards,
Chris
Click to expand...

... and don't forget to use strips of peel ply while it cures. Makes for a whole lot less sanding, fussing, etc.

Jerry
 
Closing the aft edge

This thread comes at a perfect time for me. I have just finished the third bout with my "bought" intersection fairings and I guess they fit ok. But, the aft edge is gapped open about 1/4" on both. When I first installed them I tried glassing the whole thing around the gear leg fairing and then just cutting the aft edge with a Dremel. This didn't work because the taper of the aft edge that became solid after curing was about 1.5" thick. Plus I think the gap causes "buzzing" in flight.

Any guidance on how to close this gap to an least a uniform 1/8" or so?
 
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