Instrument Panel Rib Removal

[carl nank]

I notice some builders remove the ribs that come through the sub panel to the main instrument panel in order to place instruments without haveing rib interference with the instruments. What do you do to provide support for the main instrument panel?

I placed the instruments around the ribs, but felt the instruments would have been better positioned if the ribs were not in the way.

It seems every time I try to make any changes, it requires a whole lot of time to engineer and make changes such that I will never get my plane done.
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[Mel]

It seems every time I try to make any changes, it requires a whole lot of time to engineer and make changes such that I will never get my plane done.
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This is a common factor with any modification.
The support ribs do need to be installed, but can be moved around to accommodate instruments. The ribs can also be modified as long as they are attached top and bottom.
Personally, I like to see the instruments arranged around the original placement of the ribs whenever possible. Obviously, this is not always possible.

 

[LettersFromFlyoverCountry]

I tried to use the original rib configuration but when looking at the Dynon 100, because of the curvature of the left, it would've wasted a lot of space. And it would've placed by main instrument (the Dynon) to the left of my straight-ahead line of site.

It can be done, of course, but in doing so, it made the Dynon too low on the panel.

Since the subpanel rib is already riveted, I guess I'll just use a cutting wheel to slide it off (I can't trim it too close to the subpanel), then order a replacement and cut it to fit.

 

[az_gila]

Bob... my panel...

...has a similar issue with a Dynon D-180.

I removed the top half of the left hand rib and replaced it with an aluminum tube with the ends threaded for a #8 screw.

This tube seems to provide enough anchoring to the top of the panel to prevent it wobbling fore and aft, and it takes up so little panel space you can place it between instruments.

I tried to use the original rib configuration but when looking at the Dynon 100, because of the curvature of the left, it would've wasted a lot of space. And it would've placed by main instrument (the Dynon) to the left of my straight-ahead line of site.

It can be done, of course, but in doing so, it made the Dynon too low on the panel.

Since the subpanel rib is already riveted, I guess I'll just use a cutting wheel to slide it off (I can't trim it too close to the subpanel), then order a replacement and cut it to fit.

 

[N941WR]

There is lots of info out there on this subject.

Most people cut off the rib flush with the sub-panel and using some AA move it left or right, as needed, and rivet it in place.

In my case, I bought an extra rib, cut it off, leaving the pre-punched holes in place, bent a flange on it, and riveted it in place where I needed it to clear the Dynon D100.

There are pictures here.

 

[rlo1]

I removed the top half of the left hand rib and replaced it with an aluminum tube with the ends threaded for a #8 screw.

Awesome Idea Gil! I love this web site as it has helped me many times when I reach a mental roadblock.

Thank you

- Ron

 

[gasman]

Panel support is due to the panel rib being in line with the sub panel rib. When you move the panel rib to the left or right, you are trying to make the thick panel support the thin sub-panel. If you grab the panel and shook it, you would see the sub-panel flex.

With the big flange on the bottom of the panel, you really only need the support on the top. A piece of AA going from the sub-panel at the rib location, to the panel in two places will work just fine.

 

[az_gila]

I forgot to mention...

Panel support is due to the panel rib being in line with the sub panel rib. When you move the panel rib to the left or right, you are trying to make the thick panel support the thin sub-panel. If you grab the panel and shook it, you would see the sub-panel flex.

With the big flange on the bottom of the panel, you really only need the support on the top. A piece of AA going from the sub-panel at the rib location, to the panel in two places will work just fine.

...that I did add a stiffening angle to the sub-panel. I think it's a bit flimsier on the -6 than the new design on the -7 and -9s.

If it wiggles with the tube screwed in place, add a stiffener as gasman says...

Also, if you have a tip-up, make sure the tube is below the front frame of the canopy when it is closed....

 

[carl nank]

Thanks to all

Great information! Thank you all!

I have made most of the cuts in my panel already with no change to the support ribs.

It is not bad. I have the Dynon 100 and placed it as close to the right side of the left rib and as high as possible. It is just a tad too far right of my straight ahead vision but I think it is livable. If not I may order a new panel after I do my fly-off.

That puts the radio stack just right of panel center (right of tip up release knob). That is well within Garmin specs but it would be better if I could move it left some more.

I will post pictures after I get my radio stack completed.

Again, thanks for the info.

 

[LettersFromFlyoverCountry]

With the big flange on the bottom of the panel, you really only need the support on the top. A piece of AA going from the sub-panel at the rib location, to the panel in two places will work just fine.

I'm not sure I'm following you. Are you saying you don't need to move the rib but to cut it out and just replace it with two pieces of angle connecting the subpanel to the panel?

also, any chance some of you with these great ideas could post pictures?

 

[fstringham7a]

REanel Rib Mod

Hi Bob

Here are a couple of pictures that give a glimps of how I did the mod. Basically I drew lines on the ribs where they exist the subplanel and cut them off. I then moved them in to just provide enough room for the Garmon Stack. Aluminium angle was added so they then could be drilled/riveted to the subpanel nd drilled for screw hole to attach to the panel.





Frank @ 1L8 RV7A ...painting...