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Installation position of canopy tip-up strut (7A)

LettersFromFlyoverCountry

LettersFromFlyoverCountry

Well Known Member
DWG 49, Section E-E, shows a 3/8 distance between the forwrd edge of C- 613 (the splice plate conneting 716 and 725), and the aft edge of C-725 (the ball stud forward mount).

This presents a bit of a problem for me because the little wedge I made that fits under the 716 frame and the splice plate, didn't need to be inserted as far on my construct as in the plans, so it's sticking out beyond the splice plate about 7/16.," or 1/8" beyond the callout.

Is this going to cause a problem as long as I maintain the 9 11/16 critical dimension between the center of the hole in the ball stud forward mount and the center of the hole in C-728 (the ball stud aft mount)?

If this causes no problem, I presume I would want to also change the position of the mount on the opposite side, too.

Thanks
 
Shoot, no answer here. No answer from the Y Group. No answer from Van's support, and I wanted to do some work on it tonight.

Let me trying asking it another way, then. How 'bout this? "A lawyer filed suit today claiming I was negligent in moving my ball stud mount forward 1/8". Does he have a case?" :D
 
That should not be a problem. When I mounted mine I actually moved the two mounting points a fraction closer together than the plans called for in order to get the maximum opening angle possible. I do not remember the exact dimension but I arrived at it by fully compressing a strut and measuring the distance form one ball socket to the other.

Martin Sutter
building ands flying RV's since 1988
 
RE:LAW SUIT

Bob Collins said:
Shoot, no answer here. No answer from the Y Group. No answer from Van's support, and I wanted to do some work on it tonight.

Let me trying asking it another way, then. How 'bout this? "A lawyer filed suit today claiming I was negligent in moving my ball stud mount forward 1/8". Does he have a case?" :D
Click to expand...


NO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


Frank @ SGU RV7A
 
I would try to grind back the wedge or reshape the block that the ball stud fits in. It's really important to retain the semetry and geometry of the mechanism to ensure the canopy opens and closes properly. If the struts don't work together, it will through the whole thing off and the canopy will skew when you close it or open it.

Roberta
 
Martin Sutter said:
That should not be a problem. When I mounted mine I actually moved the two mounting points a fraction closer together than the plans called for in order to get the maximum opening angle possible. I do not remember the exact dimension but I arrived at it by fully compressing a strut and measuring the distance form one ball socket to the other.

Martin Sutter
building ands flying RV's since 1988
Click to expand...

I agree with Martin.
The critical thing is that the distance between the two ball studs is at least very slightly more than the length of the gas strut when it is fully compressed.
The risk in making them exactly to the minimum dimension is when you eventually have to replace the struts (they do go bad, just like the ones on car hatchbacks, etc.) the new ones might be very slightly longer when fully compressed which will cause problems fully closing and latching the canopy.

And as long as you make the distance between the studs the same for both struts you should not have any binding or twisting issues.

Once you have them installed you will need to check the clearance on the hinge hook part of the canopy frame to make sure it is not crashing on the openings in the sub panel bulkhead. This can happen if the canopy is being opened slightly more by the struts than was originally designed.

Scott (also building and flying RV's since 1988)
 
Canopy Gas Spring Installation 101, The easy way

Bob,

Here is a tip on installing the gas springs.

gas-spring-installation.jpg


I made a positioning guide to help with the installation (made from scrap materials).

These holes in the guide are spaced per the plans spacing of 9 11/16+1/16. The extra 1/16 accounts for the tolerances in the gas strut manufacturing and will ensure the gas strut will not bottom out. A bracket made from angle aluminum is bolted behind the aft ball mount and it has a hole 9/16" up from the leg. This hole positions the aft ball mount vertically. All holes in these guides are 5/16 diameter. Now with the canopy closed (with you inside) you temporally mount these guides with C-728 and the forward hole of the guide in the forward strut mount on the canopy frame. Do the same for both sides. Works great.

BTW don't mess with the nuts to mount the C-728, make a nutplate mounting plate it will save you a lot of pain.

I hope this helps
 
robertahegy said:
I would try to grind back the wedge or reshape the block that the ball stud fits in. It's really important to retain the semetry and geometry of the mechanism to ensure the canopy opens and closes properly. If the struts don't work together, it will through the whole thing off and the canopy will skew when you close it or open it.

Roberta
Click to expand...

Right. I think trying to grind in there will be asking for trouble. So my plan would be to also move the other side the same distance forward -- 1/8"

I don't see how it would work properly any other way.
 
Great tips. Thanks. One more. I can do this with the plexi off the frame, right? Geez, I hope so because it didn't get out of the 30s today and there's no way I'm messing around with the plexi in this weather (I still don't like the obvious scratches I'm going to get from the dimpled holes in the skirts when I go to fit that plexi between the frame and skirts.)

If I do need to do all this with the plexi on, I'll just wait 'til next summer.
 
Paul:
Is there a purpose behind the holes on your "invention" between the two stud mount holes? Or were they just already drilled in your scrap piece? And you've added 1/16" to the critical dimension Van's lists. Others here seem to recommend actually making that critical dimension smaller. Do I have that right?

Bob
 
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