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Inboard Leading Edge Skin/Spar Rivet

R

RyanM

Well Known Member
Hello,

I'm riveting on my leading edge's, and I'm stuck. I can find a way to set the inboard most rivet on the skin (top & bottom). There is tank plate nut that is in the way which makes squeezing and bucking almost impossible - I don't have a bucking bar that will fit in that tight of spot.

IMG_2195.JPG


Full Res Picture

For the bottom I'm temped to just install a MK-319-BS blind rivet. I have to be missing something obvious here.

To all that have gone before me, a little help. :eek:
 
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Tungsten

Call Avery and ask for the #6004 small tungsten bucking bar. You'll thank me later...best $85 I've spent on tools.
Mike
 
I've got the tungsten 6006, but not the 6004.... My 6006 is too big. I was thinking of heading to the hardware surplus store and getting a piece of steel that could be used to buck in that area. But I'm curious how other people have set this rivet.
 
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No problem here...

Mine is a -8 wing, which I believe is the same as the -7 and it also looks the same as mine. I just went down and looked at mine, because I don't remember any difficulty with setting that particular rivet. After looking at it and the nutplate next to it, I remembered I was able to easily get my squeezer set in there. I probably used a longeron yoke on that area, because I use that one for almost everything. There was plenty of space in there to get the yoke with a flat squeezer die on it and it went on just fine.

What kind of yoke do you have to use here? Also, if need be, you could probably borrow the right kind of yoke or die from either another RV builder or from the local EAA chapter.
 
I understand your problem as I just finished riveting my first leading edge as well. Since you are done this won't help you but might help others..

Don't rivet the second rivet from the end first, leaving this open will allow for a slight movement of the rib flange and you can get any kind of squeezer in the gap. Once you rivet the second rivet, it secures the rib as in your picture and doesn't allow any movement.

Anyway, that is how I did it and gave me plenty of room for the squeezer.

Thx
 
just did this as well

I decided, given all of my options, to use a rivet squeezer with a thick flush set on it. I was able to postition the squeezer such that when the set was fully compressed, the yoke missed the tank nutplate easily.

I recall that I was able to set all of the leading edge assembly-to-spar flange rivets with a pneumatic squeezer.
 
If I remember correctly, I used a pneumatic squeezer with the longeron yoke and a reduced diameter die to clear the nut plate.
 
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