HS-1008 help

[JoeB]

While drilling the HS-1008 L&R with a drill press tonight the bit wandered on me a hair. Now the holes on the bottom are not "centered" on the measured center.

Are the now scrap?
the 9 holes that attach to the spar are spot on. it is on the bottom 2 holes on both L&R that are slightly off.

thanks

 

[JoeB]

 

[JoeB]

http://s1134.photobucket.com/albums...615/jmb1784/?action=view&current=IMG_7527.jpg

 

[CharlieWaffles]

To me they look ok. You are going to be match drilling several parts under that latter on when the tail feathers go on. You seem to have good edge distance so I wouldn't worry about it.

 

[Wayne Gillispie]

Keep on building...

Try center punching first then start with #40 or #30 then go to #12 and so on. Always keep a good sharp bit in your drill. Use boelube on any holes larger than #30 or on 1/8" or thicker aluminum. Use it on all steel pieces. It is not always necessary but will increase the life of your bits too. Helps throughout the entire build, especially with the larger holes to step up gradually. It will take more time but you will end up with less burrs, more accurate hole positions and less chance of getting those larger 5/16-7/16" bits jammed and skins pulled apart or pieces coming loose from clamps.

 

[flion]

Excellent advice from Wayne. My first thought was that you had a dull bit; they tend to 'walk' before biting in. Shouldn't be a problem for your build but only you can answer how perfect you want your parts to be. For comparison, check out the ones available from IFlyRV10.com. The ones I fabricated by hand were very nice but those are over the top. Some of these parts fabricated from thicker stock are best milled, if you can find a simpatico shop or friend with a mill. In fact, after getting the control column mounts milled, I'm not sure I would even have dared attempt it with only hand tools and/or a band saw. And a mill does such a nice job of pre-drilling holes precisely.