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how much proseal?

prkaye

Well Known Member
I need to order some proseal for the empennage trailing edges of my 9A. I will be doing all empennage trailing edges soon. How much Proseal should I get? Better to get in the 3.5oz tube, or a couple of the smaller 1 oz containers? Also, Vans sells a little dispenser... is this worth getting for the trailing edges? (i'm getting pre-built tanks, so I don't need to worry about proseal for that).
 
IIRC the 3.5oz tube Van's sells is the sealant version with a 1/2 hr working time. If you are doing a bunch of trailing edges at once, you might need to work quickly. Just something to keep in mind.

 
FWIW I used one of the 1 oz sizes for the trailing edge on my RV7A rudder. I had a little left over but not a lot.
 
Proseal

I first ordered the 3.5 oz tube and found it to be way to much for any of the rudder or elevator trailing edges. It might be the right amount if you wait and do all three trailing edges at once. OTOH, I found the little 1 oz "hockey puck" containers to be quite sufficient, one per trailing edge. Keep in mind you only need enough to glue the trail edge for no slippage ... it's not like we're trying to assure perfect seal to contain fuel. I was very sparing in the Proseal, mostly to minimize the mess. All came out great ...dead straight.

Terry R.
Mahomet, IL
N319TE fuse
 
I would buy one large can now. Use it for all the trailing edges then store the remainder in the fridge or freezer for all those other little misc. proseal projects that you will do down the road: ailerons, flaps, static ports, firewall, safeair pitot tube mount, conduit in wings, etc. For these purposes, proseal's shelf life is plenty long.

Then, when you get to the tanks, buy one new fresh can. You will easily use that one can on the two tanks.

Those little containers are very expensive for what you get.

Good luck.
 
buy a quart

I agree... get the quart can. You'll need it and unless you plan on building REALLY slowly, it won't expire. Store it in the fridge.

Also, don't forget to use a big blob of RTV between the stiffeners at the trailing edge so they "stick" together. This is necessary to avoid skin cracks at the aft rivets.
 
Why Proseal?

Lots of builders, myself included, used T-88 to seal the rudder as well as the elevators. Cheap, lasts forever and easy cleanup.
 
Phil,
You mentioned you were getting prebuilt tanks, so disregard the quart size as mentioned above. A 1 ounce container will cover one trailing edge (though the left elevator has a small trailing edge due to the trim tab, thus 2 containers will do both elevators and the rudder). The 1 ounce and 3.5 are fast setting, so quick work is needed if you do all three at once. Another option is T-88 epoxy - at least this stuff can be used for many purposes in the future, whereas the proseal is a one shot deal. My plan was to do the elevators and trim tab foam ribs at once, so I used the 3.5 oz. cartridge. I do have Van's gun, also, so it was easy to apply. If you do the cartridge (one will do all three surfaces with plenty left over), you can use a regular caulk gun, but may have to grind down the plunger disc to fit inside the cartridge tube. After mixing is not the time to find out! If I was to do it over, I would get the T-88 due to high cost of fuel tank sealant and high shipping and handling at Van's. Plus it is about the stickiest snottiest **** I have messed with.
 
T-88

Tell me more about this T-88 stuff... is it a fiberglass product? Any special skills/equipment needed to work with it?
Where is the best place to get it?
 
T-88

It is a two-part epoxy. I got mine from Spruce.

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/wppages/t88gluegun.php

Great Stuff! Apply a thin coat, cleco AEX and skins, let sit for a few hours then rivet. The excess epoxy sands easily.

060401.jpg


060411c.jpg


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060423d.jpg
 
nice

Bret, your workmanship looks amazing (far better than mine!). And your shop makes me envious!

2 part epoxy... an epoxy is basically a glue, right? 2-part meaning you just have to mix two chemicals together to prepare the glue? Is there any disadvantage of this stuff over proseal? Does it give you as "stiff" a trailing edge? What other uses does this stuff have on the aircraft?

I noticed on Aircraft Spruce this stuff is listed under "wood products"... why is that?
 
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When it came trailing edge time, I called Vans to ask if something other than ProSeal could be used, such as T-88. They said,"Probably." I then asked, "Have you folks at Vans ever used anything other than ProSeal? Response: No.

OK, so why do they recommend Proseal? Their response:" Because we assume everybody either already has some, or will soon need some for the tanks." My conclusion? T-88 would work just fine.

Terry R.
Mahomet, IL
N319TE; RV-9A, QB fuse
 
related question for those who have worked with T-88... if I use it on the trailing edge, and put clecoes through it into some aluminum angle to hold things while the epoxy dries, will I be able to get the clecoes out? Is there also a risk that the aluminum angle will end up glued to my trailing edge?

Also, I don't understand that page on aircraft spruce. From the product description it looks to be a dispenser for the T-88 (says glue not included). But the list of options to order all seem to be quantities of the glue itself. I'm confused... althought they also have a "universal cartridge" which is a single tube that you can use in a regular caulking gun.
 
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T-88

Phil,

Thou thinketh too much... ;) The T-88 comes in two containers you mix 50:50. It is like gorilla glue in consistency and suitable for use on wood, aluminum and plastic.

I found the clecos came out easily once the glue had cured. If you notice in my pics, I put a strip of masking tape over the straight angle I drilled the trailing edge to...it makes the clean-up much easier.

I plan to use the T-88 for the flaps and ailerons as well. It can also be used to attach plastic tie mounts to the skin when time for wiring.

Buy the smallest containers Spruce sells. Forget the fancy nozzels. Build on!
 
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