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How do you install gear fairings???

joeboisselle

Well Known Member
Ok, I'm almost done here and thought I should put the gear fairings on before I roll it out the door. Most of the time I read the instructions, look at the drawings, find and identify all the parts...assemble. I'm drawing a blank on these gear fairings tho. Drawing C2 out of the rv-4 manual shows part # u-810 a 1/16th of an inch from the brake disk. (this is the braket that attaches the fairing to the gear) This works fine, if the brakes aren't installed!! :confused: Anyone have pictures of this bracket installed with the brakes? I'm just not seein' it. Thanks!
 
Metal or glass?

Joe,
Are you installing fiberglass or aluminum fairings? I used aluminum fairings for 11 years on my RV4 with great results, and alot of landings. I liked them as they took a beating and didn't crack. I installed piano hinge at the trailing edge and ran the piano wire up into the fuselage to stabilize them. Where they met the wheelpant I glassed a slot in my wheelpants for them. They fit tight enough around the gear leg to not need a bracket. On my Rocket they "float" and are not attached to the gear except where the intersection fairings go over them. Neither are anywhere close to my brakes. If yours are, you could slightly modify the design by having the fairing end further away from the brakes and use a intersection fairing to make up the difference.
I have tried pumping expanding wall foam into them, tried the wooden stiffeners, and other bright ideas. In the end when I installed braided steel brake lines several years ago, I left the foam out and never re-installed the stiffeners and they still worked fine. I found in test flying that the difference between a naked leg with no pants and fairings+wheelpants is 15 knots...

Good Luck...

Rob Ray
 
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Get fiberglass and don't worry

Ok, I'm almost done here and thought I should put the gear fairings on before I roll it out the door.
Go fly with out them. Yes :eek: Look you are going to have to do some rigging right, aileron, flaps and so on. The gear leg fairings are powerful airfoils. Go fly and get the plane rigged and than put the gear legs on with or with out the wheel fairings. Go fly and see if it changes how it fly's, e.g., skidding, rolling. With them on you don't know what is out of kilter.

Most of the time I read the instructions, look at the drawings, find and identify all the parts...assemble. I'm drawing a blank on these gear fairings tho. Drawing C2 out of the rv-4 manual shows part # u-810 a 1/16th of an inch from the brake disk. (this is the braket that attaches the fairing to the gear) This works fine, if the brakes aren't installed!! :confused: Anyone have pictures of this bracket installed with the brakes? I'm just not seein' it. Thanks!
First, if you still have metal gear leg fairings you may want to pop for the new fiberglass ones, since they have a wider chord, thus more aerodynamic (less drag) and good for a mph or so more. Also that mid leg overlap is ugly. Also the fiberglass ones have a simpler method if securing with hose clamps.

I forgot what the "classic dwg's" said but I recall they left something to be desired and where vague as you are finding out. I'll give you some random thoughts below. Not sure what you are asking but it may give you some inspiration?

The Goal
You need to do two things, keep the fairing from rotating and sliding down. The rotation is helped by the upper and lower gear leg intersection fairings you eventually glass-up. There are many ways to do these. To keep it sliding down can be done several ways as well. In general the wheel pants and lower cuff keep the gear legs from sliding down. The new gear leg fairing (fiberglass) are held by a notch in the fairing and hose clamp. The intersection fairing covers this up. I would get the wheel pants (with brakes) on first. There are many ways to install the gear leg and intersection fairings and have seen many a variation. However with the new fiberglass ones they use a hose clamp in notches to secure the fairing to gear leg, so it takes out some of the "creative" solutions.


Piano Hinge Wire or Bond
The piano hinge can be done several ways. My old RV-4 (with metal gear leg fairings) was set-up so the piano hinge came out the bottom. I had to jack the plane up, remove the wheel fairing, tire assy and brake caliper to snake the piano hinge wire out. What held the wire in / up? Friction. It tended to stay put, but if it work down a little it could not get far; it would just run into the wheel fairing or brake caliper. You can drill a little tiny hole in the hinge wire at the (top) end and safety wire if you want. I did not bother because it stayed put.

Bonding, an option: If you go or have fiberglass gear fairings, just bond the trailing edge together and forget the piano hinge all together. It's a semi-permanent installation so to speak. Frankly you should never need to remove the gear fairings, ever. If you have to remove them, you cut through the bond. It saves the weight of piano hinge hardware. The only time you might have to remove them is if you need to replace a gear leg or engine mount, which should be never. I flew bare metal for a bit and only removed the gear fairings to paint them. They went back on for +1000 hours until I sold the plane.


Wood Gear Stiffener
I'm not recommending wood gear stiffeners glassed onto the gear legs, but I had them on my RV-4. (They do firm up the ride a little, no doubt and help wheel shimmy if that's a problem. They add weight and are a pain; fly with out at first.) With the bonded on wood stiffeners, they basically keep the whole gear fairing from rotating or sliding down. You can even screw through the gear leg fairing into the wood stiffener. Again suggest you fly with out the stiffener for a while and determine if you want them. You'll want to do the bonded on wood stiffener first, before the gear leg fairing or intersection fairings any way. When you glass on the wood gear stiffener you change the dimension of the gear leg due to the glass plies, so it changes everything.
 
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Thanks guys, I didn't notice anyone posted back! :eek: I do have the fiberglass wheel pants, and aluminum gear pants. I wonder if I have the parts and drawings for attaching the metal wheel pants. (?) I don't recall seeing anthing about hose clamps. Either way, I did like you said, George, and used piano wire for the gear pants and am using my modified bracket (pn u-810 I mentioned on my first post) along with my homemade gearpant to wheelpant fairing, to secure the wheelpant itself in place. I think I'll just get it set up for now and do like you suggested, fly without first 'till all the rigging is right.
Thanks again for your time and expertise!
 
Get the new stuff

Thanks guys, I didn't notice anyone posted back! :eek: I do have the fiberglass wheel pants, and aluminum gear pants. Thanks again for your time and expertise!
Like I said you may want to pop for the new gear leg fairings, fiberglass. It's one peice and goes uses the hose clamps.

Also what wheel pants do you have? One piece, two piece "old" or the last or latest two piece so called "pressure recovery" wheel pants. The new wheel pants are suppose to add speed as well. I'm all for going cheap but when it comes to drag reduction, the newer designed stuff is better and will gain a few MPH in my opinion. If you order the new gear leg fairings make sure they send you new installation instructions. Cheers

PS you may be able to sell the old stuff for people doing repairs. However if you are starting scratch, now is the time to up grade.
 
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