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Horizontal Induction Scoop Clearance Issues

TCONROY

Well Known Member
I'm fitting my intake scoop for my stock (from Van's) IO-360-M1B and found it's all but touching the Cylinder 2 side baffle. Doesn't seem like there is nearly enough room between the filter and the baffle for all the filter brackets...has anyone else experienced this? What was your solution?

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You're ok.....

You only need space for flush screws that will go through a top cover piece, then the narrow intake ramp area on the right side, then through the metal piece you rivet into the top of the fiberglass intake with a nut plate on the underside of that last piece. Here's some pictures of my situation before finishing and sealing. It's narrow at the front right corner, widening as you go back towards the cylinder. The top hold-down pieces that screw down through the intake ramp will overhang onto the air filter, so the pieces are are wider than you think. I have seen a least 6 different methods for mounting everything. Mine was forward enough that I have no metal intake ramp in front of the filter. I added an 063 angle to the fiberglass to strengthen that forward area. When its all mounted, its very very solid.
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Bend the side baffle

I have the same engine, and had the same problem when fitting the snorkel. The snorkel is just a bit too wide. What I did is to bend the side baffle outboard slightly to make enough space to fit the snorkel attaching bracket. Per Van's drawing the side baffle should be bent inboard, but it won't work for the stock horizontal snorkel. If you are using Van's cowling, bending outboard shouldn't cause interference issue between baffle and upper cowl. I know some builders cut the snorkel and re-glass it to make it fit. But I don't like fiberglass work that much. The only problem with bending side baffle outboard is you have to use a 0.125" shim between baffle and cylinder where they are screwed together, and seal the bigger gap with more sealant.
 
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