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High Performance Oil Cooler Shroud

majuro15

majuro15

Well Known Member
In one of my all night research binges, I stumbled across a fiberglass oil cooler shroud for the 10 / 540 that was supposed to smooth and increase air flow over the cooler. It had a fin inside the shroud and a round duct to attach the SCAT to. I thought I had bookmarked it but apparently sleepily forgot.

Anyone have any clue of what I'm thinking of and better yet, experience with such a addition?
 
In most cases, a stock cowl with stock baffles and oil cooler box runs just right. If in hot temperatures, a higher capacity oil cooler is just right. No need to reinvent it.
 
Maybe this?

This is a 5" tapered into a 4" duct and works extremely well in California summers at 100 plus degrees.
I never see oil temps over 200F on even the hottest days and for the most part during the winter month I keep the butterfly valve closed all the way.
I added an extra 2" flange for additional air just because I heard of some 10s struggling with hot oil temps.
You may not need it just like Jesse pointed out but in case you do, this is what works for me.

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majuro15 said:
In one of my all night research binges, I stumbled across a fiberglass oil cooler shroud for the 10 / 540 that was supposed to smooth and increase air flow over the cooler. It had a fin inside the shroud and a round duct to attach the SCAT to. I thought I had bookmarked it but apparently sleepily forgot.
Anyone have any clue of what I'm thinking of and better yet, experience with such a addition?
Click to expand...

Build whatever you want:

http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=44856

A turning vane (previous post and below) is easily added if you suspect separation at the small radius side of the turn.



 
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I've seen the Airflow kit. The one I'm thinking of was similar, but a little "smoother" shaped. They had a fin in the middle and the webpage even had some fluid dynamic screen shots of the internal air flow.

Not overly concerned about oil cooling without it, was just more curious and aggravated that I forgot to bookmark it!
 
I have had no issues with oil temps in my Rv10. I did make sure I sealed the heck out of the oil mount box on the firewall - every gap and seam was sealed. I also sealed between the oil cooler and the mount where there were gaps. I use the servo controlled butterfly valve to open and close the cooling source and in the summer I have never had a heat issue. In the winter, I can close down the air easily to control the temperature.
 
Bubblehead said:
The airflow site has those diagrams. They are in the "Oil Cooler" section. Here's a link.

http://www.airflow-systems.com/wp-content/uploads/Oil-Cooler-Duct-Installation.pdf
Click to expand...

That is it!!!! That was the image I had in my head and just didn't link it to the actual picture of the Airflow Systems site. Tried my history, but keep that small so it wasn't in there.

Man that feels good to figure something like this out!!

Good to hear others using the butterfly valve. That's on my list of things to buy for the firewall forward.
 
One thing to add, Avery tools has the 4" valve on sale for $6.01 down from $75.00. Not sure if it was a typo, as the 3" is still $65.00. I grabbed one to store on the shelf while saving $50!
 
N427EF said:
This is a 5" tapered into a 4" duct ...

IMG_0528.JPG
Click to expand...

Ernst - did you make the box or buy it from someone? Mooneys and Pitts and some others have a similar setup and I always thought it was a good way to do it but have not found a source and don't really want to fabricate it myself.
 
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