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Heavy prime over ident marks on emp parts

S

skyyking56

Well Known Member
I primed too heavy over the HS-609PP reinforcement bars and covered up the top and bot marks on these. I have tried them in both positions fitting them to the rear spar and cannot really tell which way is correct. Now that i think about it i think i was relying on the blue sharpie marks coming through, but those were taken off with the alumiprep. ****...This thing is one learing curve after another....I really respect all of you guys alot more now that I'm getting my feet wet.
THis sure is alot of work I dont know if i'm up to it.
I think i'd rather be flying.
Does anyone have any suggestions on this.
I would apprecaite any ideas.
Thanks,
Jim :confused:
RV7A empenage and that might be it
 
without clecos, or just one cleco at each end, slide a rivet in every hole. If they all drop in easy, Thats probaly good. If there is a slight variance, all the rivets will not slide in so flip it and try again.
 
If memory serves and the 609PP is the spar doubler then cleco it to the rear spars with one cleco inboard, one outboard on each spar and take a very close look to see if the holes line up with the other holes you matchdrilled to the spars. You may need a magnifying glass, the holes that you match drilled should line up perfectly and you should be able to see that. This will help you identify the right way up. Make sure you try it both ways and find the wrong way, thereby showing you the right way.

Keep at it, it gets easier.
 
I had the same thing happen with primed parts... the prepunched kits are good enough that things usually fit OK anyway.
Find which way looks OK, if the rivets / clecoes fit thru the holes then go ahead and rivet and move on. There may be a few holes that you have to run a drill or reamer thru to get the rivet to fit anyway (primer buildup) regardless if they fit right or not...

There will be lots of frustrations / problems to come ... I would say if it is giving you lots of grief put things down for a few days, enjoy the holidays with family then come back. See if you can get an RV ride with someone locally - good motivation!

Good luck!

Thomas
 
Just clecoe everything together with a clecoe in every hole and make sure everything lines up straight. The best fit will probably be the way you finished drilled them.

Roberta
 
Not to start a primer war. . .

But the primer should be really thin. that is a lot of weight. If you spray it on and it looks like it needs another coat, you are probably where you need to be.
 
Jim

Welcome to my world! Two years, many problems....many solved....great learning.....wonderful advice from this and other groups of builders......yes...some discouragement......purchase of screwed up parts...and Ken at Van's wondering how I ever was sold a kit....if they (Van's) only had known.

What a ride. It has been really fun, a tremendous learning experience, and this year I will be done with this project. Yes I am ready to fly and have been since that first rivet was set Sept. 4, 2004.

I have just kept in mind a saying I used to give my High School Chem student.

"Life is a series of problems! Successful people solve their problems successfully." You will solve this and all the ones yet to come.

Have a Merry Christmas, Happy New Year, and a great problem solving year!!!!

Frank @ SGU and SLC RV 7A Wiring/Fiberglass/$$$$$$$$$$$$$$
 
AltonD said:
Not to start a primer war. . .

But the primer should be really thin.
Click to expand...

My problem was with the prep for priming - MEK / alumiprep / etc (obviously) removes the sharpie. When I first started my marks with the vibrating pen were so light that scuffing with scotchbrite covered them up!

T.
 
I found that I couldn't see the parts marking with the vibrating pen after priming. Instead of marking them harder, I mark them with the vibrating pen, prep them, mark them with a sharpie again and then prime. The nice thing about this method is 1) you can see the markings really easy through the primer, and 2) you have a good way to gauge how thick the primer is. With using both GBP-988 and AKZO, I can easily make out the blue sharpie.
 
Thank you all for your advice and information....I appreciate the time that you all took to try and help and I WILL figure this one out.
I clecoed them first and they fit BOTH ways just fine.
Then i tried puting rivets in the holes,.....some fit and some didnt in both configurations.....the AKZO has seeped into the holes.
I think i will try to run a smaller drill through all of the holes (to clean out primer) and see if i can SEE with a magnifying glass any slight offset of holes and if that doesnt work i'll do the rivet in every hole again.
Thanks again for all of your encouragement also.....
I hope I can do the same for one of you some day.
Merry Christmas everyone
and i hope i'll be asking questions about WINGS someday.
Jim

PS
I think i see why Ken from Vans said "why are you going to prime the inside?"
but i still think that priming is the best way to go...just more time and money
 
Offtopic!!

Today I took closer look at the fiberglass parts of the empennage -- wow, they weight like a rocks. No wonder we should take care of not priming too much if we have to use those! :(
 
UPDATE:
After trying all of the above with no success....I went to my computer and started studying all of the close up pics that i had taken and low and behold i noticed a slight difference in the radiused ends of the 609pp's just enough to identify one from the other. I'm glad that i didnt keep consistency for a change.
So it is good for future reference to take alot of pics during building i guess.
Thanks again everyone.
JIM
Oh btw....the riveting of the 609pp to the rear spar went perfect with the pneumatic squeezer!!!!!!!!!! :D
 
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