corrosion resistant steel, length: 27/32", grip: 13/32", thread: 8-32, countersunk, flat head, machine screw, structuralCan anyone point me to a table that will decode the MS and NAS screw descriptions? In this particular case, I am looking for a structural #6 machine screw, 1.5 inches in length, with a 100 degree countersunk head. For example, what does this mean: MS24694C10?
I think you are saying MS24694C10 = 27/32 length, 13/32 grip, 8-32 thread, countersunk, flat head, machine screw structural.corrosion resistant steel, length: 27/32", grip: 13/32", thread: 8-32, countersunk, flat head, machine screw, structural
I go to Aircraft Spruce and look at the catalog
#6 machine screw (#6 only in non structural screws) 1.5 long is a MS24693S36 in CAD plated Steel, or a MS24693C36 in stainless steel.
Oof. Foreign site with a publication and a distribution statement on it precluding it from release outside of government channels. Still, it's a great resource in this endeavor.If you're not in the military, the 2006 version of 1-1A-8 is probably good enough for us to use. I found a copy online here http://www.itmexicali.edu.mx/jljv/mecatronica/aeronaves/estructuras/1-1A-8 CHANGE 3.pdf
If you just simply must use stainless, a dab of beeswax on the threads will prevent galling in the plate nuts. Works for cad plated also.Do yourself (and everyone who works on the plane after you) and no NOT use stainless screws on your RV. The best ones are Cadmium plated steel screws. The corrosion resistant (stainless) screws are more brittle (the heads strip out) they tend to seize in the nut plates, they often then snap off in the nut plate,
^^^^^^^^Genuine Aircraft Hardware Co. www.genhardware.com also known as GAHco makes a really nice desk reference. I use it regularly.
I had not seen the 1-1A-8 document before. It is quite comprehensive!
Caution:If you're not in the military, the 2006 version of 1-1A-8 is probably good enough for us to use. I found a copy online here http://www.itmexicali.edu.mx/jljv/mecatronica/aeronaves/estructuras/1-1A-8 CHANGE 3.pdf
Thanks, I'll admit I'm not tech-savvy enough to understand it, but about 200 files were PDFs 10 minutes before I downloaded this one, and now they are all showing as HTMLs with broken links. Oh well...That's strange; nothing malicious shows up for me in the file.
And also for the url itself: https://www.virustotal.com/gui/url/...68d893a2b1c2f9a3954d45817c190f32716?nocache=1
Sites uploading a document with a distribution outside government channels prohibited notice on page 1 don't tend to be the most trustworthy. Same kind of thing the War Thunder forums kept getting in trouble for.Thanks, I'll admit I'm not tech-savvy enough to understand it, but about 200 files were PDFs 10 minutes before I downloaded this one, and now they are all showing as HTMLs with broken links. Oh well...
Yah know, I've been watching an A&P friend do an annual and repairs on a Skyhawk. Everywhere a skin is secured by a SS Screw the screw head is surrounded by bubbling paint and corrosion. He is removing the parts to treat the corrosion and touchup the paint. Obviously he is not a fan and strongly recommends cad-plated screws for securing aluminum.Do yourself (and everyone who works on the plane after you) and no NOT use stainless screws on your RV. The best ones are Cadmium plated steel screws. The corrosion resistant (stainless) screws are more brittle (the heads strip out) they tend to seize in the nut plates, they often then snap off in the nut plate, and stainless touching aluminum causes corrosion on the aluminum. It’s a lose/lose situation, they are also more expensive! Cad plating acts like a lubricant in the nut plate, and if corrosion wants to start, it’ll manifest itself on the Cad plating and not on the aluminum. Then you throw away and use new screws. (The cad plating is sacraficial)
Yup… bingo! Some people think SS is an upgrade.. I don’t!Yah know, I've been watching an A&P friend do an annual and repairs on a Skyhawk. Everywhere a skin is secured by a SS Screw the screw head is surrounded by bubbling paint and corrosion. He is removing the parts to treat the corrosion and touchup the paint. Obviously he is not a fan and strongly recommends cad-plated screws for securing aluminum.
Just make sure to replace those cad plates screws after use. Once the thin cad layer is scratched the underlying steel fastener will start the corrosion process.Yah know, I've been watching an A&P friend do an annual and repairs on a Skyhawk. Everywhere a skin is secured by a SS Screw the screw head is surrounded by bubbling paint and corrosion. He is removing the parts to treat the corrosion and touchup the paint. Obviously he is not a fan and strongly recommends cad-plated screws for securing aluminum.
Do yourself (and everyone who works on the plane after you) and no NOT use stainless screws on your RV. The best ones are Cadmium plated steel screws. The corrosion resistant (stainless) screws are more brittle (the heads strip out) they tend to seize in the nut plates, they often then snap off in the nut plate, and stainless touching aluminum causes corrosion on the aluminum. It’s a lose/lose situation, they are also more expensive! Cad plating acts like a lubricant in the nut plate, and if corrosion wants to start, it’ll manifest itself on the Cad plating and not on the aluminum. Then you throw away and use new screws. (The cad plating is sacraficial)
Yah know, I've been watching an A&P friend do an annual and repairs on a Skyhawk. Everywhere a skin is secured by a SS Screw the screw head is surrounded by bubbling paint and corrosion. He is removing the parts to treat the corrosion and touchup the paint. Obviously he is not a fan and strongly recommends cad-plated screws for securing aluminum.
Just make sure to replace those cad plates screws after use. Once the thin cad layer is scratched the underlying steel fastener will start the corrosion process.
As for the bubbling paint, that can also be caused by poor surface prep prior to paint.