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Grizzly GO555LX Band saw review

bret

Well Known Member
Well, just getting ready for the fuse kit to arrive, did a lot of lookin into band saws and decided on this one. Might be overkill for the 7 project but I just hate buying weak tools. Grizzly just came out with this one with computer balanced cast iron wheels and a one HP motor. Please excuse the amateur actor in the vid.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eeCsAeQAF08
 
Nice saw Bret. That was a great cut on the 2" angle. On my cheapo Ryobi, I need quite a bit of grinding after making a cut. I really like your paint job and how you did it as you are building. Have fun with the fuselage.
 
Hi Bret,

Most all bandsaws have what's called a "lead angle." Your cutting fence won't always follow a drawn line without "angling' the work piece because of the blade's manufacturing process. They're stamped out and one side of the blade's teeth have a small burr as a result.

Take a 9" long piece of thin plywood and draw a straight line, parallel to one edge and then start cutting along that line freehand. Stop when you've gone around half way and look at the edge as compared to your miter slot and you'll see a small angular difference. This is called your 'lead angle' and what will be needed to cut along any drawn straight line.

A band saw is my favorite shop tool for work and fun projects like bandsaw boxes that are made from start to finish on the bandsaw.

Best,
 
Hi Bret,

Most all bandsaws have what's called a "lead angle." Your cutting fence won't always follow a drawn line without "angling' the work piece because of the blade's manufacturing process. They're stamped out and one side of the blade's teeth have a small burr as a result.

Take a 9" long piece of thin plywood and draw a straight line, parallel to one edge and then start cutting along that line freehand. Stop when you've gone around half way and look at the edge as compared to your miter slot and you'll see a small angular difference. This is called your 'lead angle' and what will be needed to cut along any drawn straight line.

A band saw is my favorite shop tool for work and fun projects like bandsaw boxes that are made from start to finish on the bandsaw.

Best,

Thanks, that is interesting, this is my first band saw, can you recommend a good blade? Thanks again. Bret
 
Band saw

I have a 30 year old 12" Craftsman that has been the most used tool in my shop . Fine tooth wood blades work great on Alum , even at the "fast wood blade speed " . I have cut stainless steel for some firewalls for some other projects , can get more than one firewall out of a blade .
When you cut angle try putting the metal down like a upside down "V" instead of an "L" , it will cut a lot faster , cooler and cleaner.
Tom
 
Brett,
Starrett blades are the best. They are not cheap, though. They have some nice tech info on the page below.

http://www.starrett.com/saws/saws-hand-tool-products/band-saw-blades

MSC, McMaster-Carr and Grainger all carry Starrett.

Listers, I just did a little web searching on the Grizzly band saw Brett bought. Right now, the cheapest price seems to be direct from Grizzly. They are currently selling it for $55 less than the non XL model.

http://www.grizzly.com/products/14-Deluxe-Bandsaw/G0555LX

Charlie
 
Thanks on the angle cut method, I actually thought about that after I did it. Newbie band saw operator here, one note on the LX model it has cast iron wheels like their more expensive models, this thing weighs around 245 lbs, almost couldn't lift the upper unit onto the stand, it has a real nice surpenteen belt system for two blade speeds, I set it up on the slower speed for cutting aluminum. Thanks for the blade info, what TPI is best for cutting angle and other material for the fuse kit? Thanks, Bret.
 
I've got a 3/4 hp bandsaw and the 6.5 tpi wood blade cuts aluminum like butter. Not the smoothest cut in all the world, but since I have a 12" disk sander with 1 hp, I can generally smooth it out.

Follow that with the Vixen file and if necessary with a fine mill file to dress the edges, and even long cuts only take a few moments to get ready.

The downside to the coarse blade is that very thin pieces tend to bend while cutting.

Dave
 
I've got a 14" industrial "General" brand, saw and it slows down like yours only when the motor drive belt is slipping. I don't know the motor hp off hand but I found yours slowing down quite a lot.
 
I must be talking to the wall! ;)

snipped Thanks for the blade info, what TPI is best for cutting angle and other material for the fuse kit? Thanks, Bret.

Bret,
That info and more is available at the Starrett web link I posted in my previous email. Look for the icon called BLADE SELECTION IN 5 STEPS.

Charlie
PS The title is what my mother told me when I wouldn't listen.
 
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review?

Hey Bret, you've had your Grizzly G0555LX awhile. Can you give us an update on your thoughts? Good points, bad points? Thanks
 
Most all bandsaws have what's called a "lead angle." Your cutting fence won't always follow a drawn line without "angling' the work piece because of the blade's manufacturing process.

Since I used my bandsaw for strait cuts or very minor curves, I minimized the "lead angle" but installing a 3/4" wide blade. The wider the blade, the higher the tension you run. The combination makes for much less lead angle.

http://thesalmonfarm.org/blog/p/3667

IMG_8574_thumb.jpg
 
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