Gretz Aero Pitot Tube

[llarkin]

Hi Everybody, I am currently trying to install a Gretz Aero G1000 heated pitot tube. I was wondering if anyone could tell me how they mounted the circut board? Specifically what rib, orientation etc. How did you run the wires from the tube to the circut board? Do you have pics you can share? Thanks in advance.
Larry in Loveland, CO

 

[dekky111]

My solution

I mounted it on the subpanel, then found I didn't have an ideal place on the panel for the indicators. Eventually got fed up looking and just didn't install the fancy lights at all. The pitot heat works great!

Jack
N811Ak
Final details

 

[mgomez]

This is how I did it

You may want to use my way as a counterexample:

http://www.bashingaluminum.com/MoreWingWork/MoreWingWork.html

There's one caveat that I want to share: the wing skin is not yet riveted on. I drilled, deburred, and dimpled it, but I have not yet riveted it. As you can see from this photo

the wires to the circuit board will get in the way of bucking the rivets. To dimple it, I had to remove the circuit board. That'll be "fun" when the skin is mostly riveted on!

So, in other words...that's how I did it, and I may yet regret it!

By the way, there's another Adel clamp or two now holding that harness in place...I got paranoid about relying on self-adhesive cable anchors near the bellcrank.

As for the 3 LEDs, I did install them, and I'm not sure it'll be worth the effort. I'll let you know when I'm flying!

Regards,
Martin

 

[Bill Palmer]

Radio Shack Chassis

Just my solution:

I mounted the circuit board in a Radio Shack aluminum chassis and mounted the circuit board and chassis with bolts through rubber grommets (also from Radio Shack) for some vibration isolation. Also, the circuit board is protected, somewhat, from moisture via the grommet standoffs and enclosed chassis. The circuit board is grounded via the circuit board wiring/connector and not via the chassis/rib.

Here are a couple of photos:

http://img143.imageshack.us/img143/2031/pitotmodule2bm6.jpg

http://img143.imageshack.us/img143/5993/pitotmodule1dn2.jpg


Take Care!

Bill Palmer
RV-8A Still In-Work
Chino Hills, CA

 

[Sparky]

Here's How I Did It

Not flying yet, but here's how I did it...

I still need to install additional clamps, etc.

 

[smithhb]

I just did this. The problem is being to access the ECU through the inspection panel to check the wire connections. I fabricated a bracket for the ECU that avoids the bellcrank yet allows close proximity to the pitot (Mr. Gretz is pretty conservative with his wire leads from the pitot).

I riveted the bracket to the rib like this...

I will next run my wires through the flex conduit and rivet the skin.

 

[Davepar]

Bret- I can't tell how thick that stand-off bracket material is, but you don't want that to flex back and forth and eventually break.

I just mounted mine to a rib (sorry for the blurry pic):

I actually installed it after the wing was done. Not impossible, but would be easier with one skin off.

More pics here: http://www.dualrudder.com/rv7/2006/11/22/1110

I just drilled 3 holes in the panel and mounted the LED's directly using some grommets:

 

[Capflyer]

Mine is mounted very similar to how Dave P. did his only I angled mine slightly to have more direct access to the wires. Lucky me already needed to remove the pitot tube once because of something stupid I did and it was very easy to access unscrewing the wires through the inspection panel.

Martin, if your skin is not on yet I would recommend turning your board 90 deg. It seems to me that over time these wires will loosen or vibrate to become broken where they are clamped in so it seemed obvious to mount the board where I had easy access to it.

The lights are mounted in my panel just like Dave's using plastic grommets.

 

[smithhb]

Bret- I can't tell how thick that stand-off bracket material is, but you don't want that to flex back and forth and eventually break.

Dave, I fab'ed my bracket out of .040. It is pretty stout but I never underestimate the power of vibration. That is why I mounted it in the bay with the bellcrank. If/when it cracks, I just replace the bracket.

I fab'ed the stand-off bracket in order to move the ECU out from the rib because it appeared too hard to access with the bottom skin attached.

 

[mgomez]

Martin, if your skin is not on yet I would recommend turning your board 90 deg. It seems to me that over time these wires will loosen or vibrate to become broken where they are clamped in so it seemed obvious to mount the board where I had easy access to it.

You know, that's not a bad idea. When I installed it, I had absolutely fabulous access...but I don't think I'll like the performance with that skin missing.

Thanks!
Martin