Getting ready for the fuse... any advice?

[danielhv]

Im going to be placing my fuse order in the next few weeks... trying to find out if there is anything that needs to be deleted or added... i'd like to not add an extra $500 is extra parts if I can keep from it so I thought I'd ask here for those that have gone before me.

btw, still unsure on the -7 or -7A, ill decide next week. And its going to be a tip up for sure.

 

[frazitl]

Electric pitch trim for sure. I have manual roll trim, but would do electric roll trim next time . Add springs on top of master cylinders to ensure that they return to full open. Prevents a lot of problems with brake sticking. Plan for the 5 point harness. Easier to install the hardware now. Nice to keep your backside stuck to the seat for turbulence. Essential for aero. Plan on nutplates and screws for baggage compartment floors. I installed mu strobe power supply under that floor. If you're using LED strobes, you still might want to inspect the area under the floor for water pooling and any related corrosion. I installed castle nuts with cotter pins on all the control linkage near the sticks. This allowed better adjustment for no friction linkage and seemed safer that nylon insert lock nuts too. Think about ELT and ELT antennae mounting. Might need a platform somewhere. Trutrak sells mounting kits for servos that you will want to install while you're working in the tail cone.

Think seriously about upgrading to Grove brakes. Gotta Love em.

Have FUN. You're gonna love it...

 

[RV7ator]

Obtain everything you intend to mount on the firewall and fit all to the firewall while you are building the firewall (the first activity in fuse assembly instructions, but can be delayed until after the center section is complete). Install all those platenuts, drill those holes, etc. Far, far easier now than after the firewall is installed. Especially, get the engine mount now (for the -7, of course!). It's a real beast to clamp and drill accurately once the firewall's riveted in compared to the ease of fitting/drilling while the firewall's loose.

BTW, postpone bending the longerons until you have built the tail cone and center section. Their twisted mess is a pain to store until needed since they don't lay flat/straight anymore.

John Siebold

 

[danielhv]

Good input... my only concern... I have no idea whats going on the firewall yet, or what type of engine im going to go with... or autopilot for that matter.... aparently I have more planning to do before I just keep on beating rivets together!

 

[rzbill]

Don't worry, be happy

If you SB at a normal rate, you have a year before needing to decide on engine.

While the comments above are true about ease, I have not found any of the firewall tasks particulary difficult. However, I may be doing something different than some.

The instructions have you build much of the fuse with it upside down. That is good. Afterwards you flip it upright and do other work. As soon as possible, I flipped mine back upside down and it has remained there all the way through panel install and wiring. I had it rightside up for a few weeks when doing a couple of tasks like installing the submarine brackets. The bruises took weeks to subside. I cussed and flipped the canoe upside down again. Its heaven to sit on a rolling chair with your 'work' at eye level.

You don't need a complicated rotisserie. I have 3 a-frame ladders and a couple of 2x4 and tiedown straps.

For the firewall, I would DEFINITELY leave the recess unriveted until the very last minute. Without that convenient hole, the firewall work would be nearly impossible for one person to accomplish.

 

[Steve]

If you know what fuel system you'll be installing 1-ish years from now buy the fuel pump now to save the shipping charges later. If you decide to use Vans gascolator buy the firewall doubler now and INSTALL the doubler when you build the firewall instead of later when you do the rest of the FF stuff. Might as well load up on extra snap bushings of various sizes, too.