G3X Engine sensor connectors

[nharris]

What are people using to hook up all their engine sensors?
Simple Molex connectors?
What's a good connector on the engine side that could be exposed to rain?

Thanks

 

[DerekS]

What are people using to hook up all their engine sensors?
Simple Molex connectors?
What's a good connector on the engine side that could be exposed to rain?

Thanks

My Glasair has simple molex connectors that have worked without fail for 30ish years. They are stiff, exposed to corrosion but no special crimper and have been very reliable for me.

For my -10 I went fancy and used DTM series connectors aka. Deutsch connectors, but patent expired so also available from AMP and JRReady interchangably. They are nicely sealed, available in barrel crimp and feel like they will last longer than the engine they are attached to. They also come in a wide range of formats, and have high amp variants (DT or DP series) They are a little bulkier, especially in the DT/DP format or for high pin counts, but they are my go to for 2-6 pins.

Derek

 

[Walt]

Amp butt splices.

 

[1bigdog]

What are people using to hook up all their engine sensors?
Simple Molex connectors?
What's a good connector on the engine side that could be exposed to rain?

Thanks

The sensor provider and the metallurgy Of the wiring dictate the best practice. In my case, using the Garmin supplied kit, I used ring connectors with screws and nuts. I shrink wrapped those connections.

 

[Desert Rat]

The sensor provider and the metallurgy Of the wiring dictate the best practice. In my case, using the Garmin supplied kit, I used ring connectors with screws and nuts. I shrink wrapped those connections.

For CHT & EGT I used the supplied ring terminals and fiberglass sleeve held on with zip ties. For most other stuff I think I used insulated spade connectors but wouldn't swear to it without looking. The oil temp sensor is very sensitive to the slightest resistance change like you'd see wit a corroded connector so thats the only one thats truly waterproof. For that one I ended up using D-sub pins without a back shell in a couple layers of heat shrink.