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Fuel Tank Service Bulletin Hint - SB 13-12-19

MartySantic

MartySantic

Well Known Member
Just about done with Van's SB 13-12-19. The hardest part of the service bulletin is to remove the sealant where the plates sit. Used a flexible shaft on a Dremel with a Dremel brush (Dremel Part #442). Worked very well and made it relatively easy to remove the tank sealant in the plate contact areas inside the tank. Makes a bit of dust, but, was able to vacuum and use a clean rag soaked with Coleman fuel to clean all of the internal surfaces. (as suggested by the Van's technical support).
 
Another Option

I built a new tank, using some of the old parts. I wanted to be able to do the latest SB without working thru the front cover hole. It seemed like a difficult job with marginal results. I already had a top mechanical gauge put in when I did the first doubler SB. So I kept the tank top skin and the front cover plate with sensor.
Building a new tank also would add the anti-rotation plate on the fuel return fitting.
The sight window was a tough decision. I like the window and never had trouble with it but I alway looked at it with some concern that one day I'll find it leaking.
I also had on hand the new tank vent kit and wanted to install that.
The cost for tank parts included sealer was about $270 plus shipping. That does not include the vent kit.
[url=http://tonytessitore.smugmug.com/RV-12Project/Mods/i-K77vHZk/A][/URL]
The "Mark IV" fuel tank; Moellered, de-windowed, vented, and reinforced:
[url=http://tonytessitore.smugmug.com/RV-12Project/Mods/i-pVJCbt8/A][/URL]

[url=http://tonytessitore.smugmug.com/RV-12Project/Mods/i-zN29Krp/A][/URL]

The pics are links which will take you to details of the tank rebuild.
 
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I pulled the top off the tank, made all the mods, and re-sealed it. Plenty of room to work. Couldn't imagine doing all that with my big hands in that little hole! Worked out fine.
 
Ditto. It didn't take long to get the top off the tank and do all the mods. Made it a relatively simple job.
 
Just finished....

I just finished all the tank mods as part of the (re)build.

I just did it thru the access plate.

Just leak-tested it and so far so good, but getting the corners done thru the access hole was a real pain and even with mirrors and flashlights it was hard to get the sealant out. In the end it was mostly by feel....using the scraper suggested in the s/b. I did not use the sealant remover inside the tank for fear of not getting it all off, but it worked well on the external parts.

I used a mini car vacuum, swifter duster and duct tape to remove the bits inside.

If I had to do it all over again, I would have ordered the main fuel tank sides/parts, salvaged the moeller gauge, access panel and other smaller items and simply redone the tank.

If it starts leaking, I may still do that rather than face another tear down.
 
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Tony, I always enjoy seeing pics of your airplane. Very classy colors and great detail. Always impeccably clean. You guys will like the fuel vent and the Moeller FG.
 
Hi Tony,

I see it looks like you have removed your sight glass. I wonder if you are using a dip stick now to check fuel levels? That would be a pain. I guess you are cross checking the two fuel gauges you now have?

I see some people have suggested they use the gauge on the tank when they pour the fuel in. I am right handed so lift the 5 gallon jug on the right side of my body and empty in, I don't think I would be able to see around the jug at the same time. But I get such a good gurgle to warn me to stop when the fuel gets to the top. Also get the same gurgle when using a pump in the field. I normally get my wife to count the litres out to slow down the speed as I get close, of fill slower by myself.

Cheers

Julian 120316
 
Julian,
The new tank parts furnished with the kits no longer have the sight glass since Van's incorporated a mechanical gauge on top of the tank. Of course, you have eluded to the main issue and that is you no longer can actually see the fuel level in the tank. The sight glass would indicate fuel level right up to "full", and the mechanical gauge stops a couple of gallons short of full so you always have to be careful topping up the tank.
There is always the question whether any gauge is working, however the needle on the mechanical gauge will jiggle when you move the airplane slightly which is a pretty good indication that the gauge is not stuck. Cross checking with the electric sensor indication on the EMS confirms the mechanical gauge.
As the only pilot of my airplane, I always am aware of fuel level and I don't use a dip stick. If others were flying the airplane I would be more inclined to use a dipstick to double check the level before flying.

I don't try to lift fuel containers up to the filler neck. Instead use a hand cranked transfer pump with a ground cable.
i-THp7KKJ-M.jpg


I recently let the transfer hose slip out of the filler and splash the rear window. Very careless of me and I am currently replacing the window. I did not have the window sealed as per the latest plans and it instantly was crazed and cracked. Be careful refueling!
i-QzgSvhd-M.jpg

The picture also shows the right angle fitting I now have in the hose to prevent it from slipping out of the filler. Should have done that a long time ago, along with sealing the window, and probably would have saved myself a couple hundred bucks.

Marty, sorry for the thread drift...
 
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I have the identical setup Tony, thanks for the tip about the right angle fitting on the hose, I am going to do that right away.
 
Thanks Tony,

I love the site gauge. I have seen all your posts and they have been helpful over the years.

I made a plywood template of the rear window and had a company make the rear window from the same material as the canopy. So I don't have to worry about the occasional splash. The other two RV12 flying in NZ have both had to replace their rear windows and have elected to do the same as I did. We are aware of the discussion on the rear window being part of the structure.

Only a few days to Sun River.

Cheers

Julian 120316
 
MartySantic said:
Just about done with Van's SB 13-12-19. The hardest part of the service bulletin is to remove the sealant where the plates sit. Used a flexible shaft on a Dremel with a Dremel brush (Dremel Part #442). Worked very well and made it relatively easy to remove the tank sealant in the plate contact areas inside the tank. Makes a bit of dust, but, was able to vacuum and use a clean rag soaked with Coleman fuel to clean all of the internal surfaces. (as suggested by the Van's technical support).
Click to expand...

If you use the Dremel and the Dremel brush, ENSURE you rinse the tank by pouring about 1/2 gallon of gas. Shake it, filter thru coffee filters till clean. Took 6 rinses to get rid of the sealant particles.
 
Hose

Tony,
In your photo of 90 degree fitting use to get the tube down the tank what type of hose and where did you get it?

Thanks
 
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